Mexico Guide
The north
The Sierra Tarahumara
If you have the time and are reasonably fit, independent exploration of the sierra is both feasible and recommended. Whether you plan to see the sights of the sierra on your own or as part of a group, be sure to visit Three Amigos Canyon Expeditions, López Mateos 46 ( 
635/456-0179, 
www.the3amigoscanyonexpeditions.com ), the most professional and best-equipped outfit in Creel. They can advise on your trip, organize a well-priced tour or rent you vehicles; a five-person-capacity pick-up truck, with a cooler, maps and information costs about M$1300 a day, a well-maintained mountain bike M$165 a day (M$100/half-day) and a two-person moped is M$600 a day.
For anyone who wants to explore independently, the San Ignacio ejido, a Rarámuri land-owning cooperative on the edge of Creel, contains many of the attractions normally covered by tours. Get there by following López Mateos towards the highway, taking a left onto the dirt road and continuing past the cemetery and uphill into the pine forest (entrance M$15). A few kilometres from the gates you'll encounter the San Ignacio Mission and a series of otherworldly rock formations, including the Valley of the Mushrooms, which contains surreal structures closely resembling giant toadstools, and the Valley of the Frogs, with its squat amphibian-like boulders. The Valley of the Monks lies 5km away, and has tall upright stones revered by the Rarámuri as symbols of fertility. Serene Lake Arareco is 8km from Creel, and a beautiful spot for fishing and camping.
Other highlights of the sierra include the Recohuata hot springs, 22km from Creel and within biking or riding distance. Here you can bathe in three pools of steamy, clean, sulphurous water. Cusárare falls, 35m high and most impressive during the rainy season, also lies some 22km from Creel. The village of Cusárare, nearby, has a seventeenth-century Jesuit mission adorned with intriguing Rarámuri wall paintings. You can reach the falls by bike, or on the daily Batopilas bus, though you'll have a long hike back to Creel if you don't stay overnight, which you can do either by camping or checking into the pricey Sierra Lodge ( 435/259-3999, www.coppercanyonlodges.com , reservations through Three Amigos; Price: M$750-1100). Hitching is certainly a possibility, though you are advised to exercise the usual precautions.
A bit further afield, La Bufa, a dwindling settlement overlooking the Río Batopilas, is reached via a spectacular and undulating mountain road that rises and falls through four different canyons. You're assured of some inspirational vistas, but you'll need a full day and either a guide or some form of motor-driven transport to reach them. You can catch the same scenery on the bus ride to Batopilas, though taking the bus means you'll have to spend at least one night here. Furthest from Creel and actually outside the canyonlands is the famous 254m Basaséachic Falls, protected in the Parque Nacional de Basaséachic. Said to be the highest cascade in North America, it makes a long, but spectacularly rewarding day's excursion – about four hours' driving and two hours on foot.
If you're not up to strenuous activity, or have only limited time in Creel, an organized tour is the best way to see the canyons. These frequently require a minimum number of persons to run, so if your time is especially limited you should try the booth on the main plaza, or the more popular hotels like Casa Margarita's or Hotel Parador. Rates should be about the same between operators, but it's worth shopping around. Roughly speaking, a four-hour spin through the ejido should cost around M$165 (4-person minimum), a seven-hour trip to Recohuata spring is M$225 (6-person minimum), a full-day trip to La Bufa costs M$335 and a day-long trip to Basaséachic is around M$550 (6-person minimum). Find out if food is included with your tour and if there are any additional costs like museum entrance or toll fees before you set out. If you don't speak Spanish, check that your guide speaks English before parting with any money.
Hardcore adventure enthusiasts should contact Chito Arturo at Umárike Expediciones ( 635/456-0632, www.umarike.com.mx ). A reputable guide with over ten years of experience, he can organize extensive backcountry hikes, rock-climbing lessons and biking and canyoning trips. A truly memorable way of exploring the canyons is on horseback, and if you want to be assured of animals that are cared for, speak to Norberto at El Adventurero on López Mateos ( 635/456-0557, www.ridemexico.com ). Decent, professional tours start at M$120 for a two-hour ride through the ejido (2-person minimum).