Mexico Guide
The north
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Opening time: Tues– Sun 10am–6pm, Wed until 8pm
Price: M$40, free on Wed
Website: www.marco.org.mx
At the wonderful Museo de Arte Contemporáneo, or MARCO, at the junction of Zuazua and Ocampo by the cathedral, you're greeted by Juan Soriano's La Paloma, an immense sculpture of an obese black dove whose curvaceous lines stand in dramatic contrast to the angular terracotta lines of the museum building. It was built in 1991 to a design by Mexico's leading architect, Ricardo Legorreta, whose buildings are all highly individual but share common themes: visitors from the southwest of the US may recognize the style from various structures dotted around Texas, Arizona and New Mexico. Inside, none of the floors and walls seems to intersect at the same angle. The vast, at times whimsical, open plan centres on an atrium with a serene pool into which a pipe periodically gushes water: at the sound of the pump gurgling to life, you find yourself drawn to watch the ripple patterns subside. You might imagine that such a courageous building would overwhelm its contents, but if anything the opposite is true.
Apart from a couple of monumental sculptures tucked away in courtyards, there is no permanent collection, but the standards maintained by the temporary exhibits are phenomenally high. A key factor in this is undoubtedly the bias towards Latin American (particularly Mexican) artists, who are currently producing some of the world's most innovative and inspiring works. The quality art bookstore and fancy café are both worth visiting, but don't fail to stop by the lovely bar, right by the central pool.