Mexico Guide
The Bajío
San José Iturbide
Further south, SAN JOSÉ ITURBIDE is an immaculate town centred on a tidy plaza, chiefly distinguished by its behemoth Neoclassical church, dedicated to Agustín de Iturbide, a local opportunist who started the War of Independence as a general loyal to Spain – inflicting major defeats on Morelos – only to change sides later. Having helped secure Mexico's Independence without any concomitant reform, he briefly declared himself emperor in 1822. The plaque reads, accurately enough, "from one of the few towns which have not forgotten you".
There's little reason to stay, but if you just fancy a night in a small ordinary Mexican town with good accommodation, then try the excellent Hotel Los Arcos, Plaza Principal 10, right by the church ( 
419/198-0330, 
sjiturbide@yahoo.com.mx; Price: M$500-750), with large, modern, carpeted rooms. There's also the convenient, comfortable but basic Hotel Posada Unión, Callejón Olivera 10, two blocks along Allende near the temple ( 419/198-0071; Price: M$250-350). The best meals in town are in the restaurant at Los Arcos, and there are good snacks and espresso at Casas Viejas, just steps away on the main plaza.