Mexico Guide
Oaxaca
Teotitlán del Valle
Less than a thirty-minute drive northeast from Oaxaca, just before the small Zapotec archeological site of Lambityeco (daily 8am–6pm; M$25), a road leads 4km to TEOTITLÁN DEL VALLE, the most famous weaving town in Oaxaca. All over the village you see bold-patterned and brightly coloured rugs and sarapes, some following traditional designs from Mitla, others imitating twentieth-century designs, among them those of Escher. Century-old recipes are still used in the production of dyes, namely indigo, pomegranate and cochineal. The cochineal beetle secretes a substance that, when dried, creates an inimitable blood-red colour. Rugs are mainly the product of cottage industry: even if you're not buying, poke your head into the compounds with rugs hanging outside. Most weavers will be more than happy to provide a demonstration of pre-Hispanic weaving techniques. When dropped off the bus, you'll probably be pointed along a street to the left, which leads to the mercado de artesanías. You'll see the widest range here – ask to rummage in the back and you'll find some especially nice deals – and prices are generally cheaper than in Oaxaca. Be sure to check the quality, as some rugs are wool blends and machine-woven.
The village has an interesting community museum (Tues– Sun 10am–2pm & 4–6pm; M$10) with displays on pre-Hispanic artefacts and information about carpet-weaving and life in the area. Inside the local church, whose walls are studded with bits of Zapotec temple, worship is a syncretic fusion of Catholic and indigenous ritual.
Teotitlán has a few worthy restaurants. A favourite with locals as well as tour groups, Tlamanalli, Juárez 39 (Tues– Sun 2–5pm), serves delicious local classics such as squash-blossom soup and stewed chicken; the menu changes daily. You can also organize ecotours here to the village of Benito Juárez. The less expensive La Cúpula, on the road into town, offers authentic Zapotec food, including hearty pozole soup, adjacent to a fine weaving shop. A wonderful alternative base to Oaxaca, where you can immerse yourself in the indigenous traditions of the region for a couple of days, is 
Casa Sagrada ( 
951/516-4275, 
www.casasagrada.com ; Price: M$750-1100), a nature retreat that offers cosy rooms adorned with artesanía in a glorious setting and delicious food. There are cooking classes and horseback tours available, and breakfast and dinner are included. About 3.5km outside town, back towards Hwy-190, there's an inconveniently sited Tourist Yú'ù – check with the tourist office to see if it's open. If not, El Descanso, Juárez 51, also offers accommodation (Price: M$250-350). There are direct buses (M$45) out here every hour or so from Oaxaca, and frequent micros from Tlacolula, further east along Hwy-190.