Mexico Guide
Oaxaca
The zócalo
The zócalo, closed to traffic and surrounded by portales (arcades) sheltering cafés, sees a steady stream of beggars, hawkers, business people, tourists and locals. In 2005 the zócalo was given an "ecorenovation" when the local government decided to uproot the gigantic imported Laurel trees planted around the square and put native cypress trees in their place. An ill-conceived plan intended to showcase Oaxaca's endemic flora, the overly manicured outcome was greeted with strong criticism and protest from Oaxaqueños. Still, despite its aesthetic shortcomings, the square continues to be Oaxaca's kaleidoscopic central reference point, a fascinating amalgam of indigenous traditions and colonial grandeur. It is usually animated, beguiling and compelling, and features some of the best free entertainment in the city – especially displays of music, song and dance. On Sundays and many weekday evenings you'll find a band playing in the centre, or else a performance or exhibition opposite the cathedral. On the south side of the square, the Neoclassical, Porfiriano Palacio de Gobierno features a historical mural by Arturo García Bustos. Second-rate by Mexican standards, the mural depicts the country's history: at the top are the revolutionary Ricardo Flores Magon (left), Benito Juárez and his wife Margarita Maza (centre) and José María Morelos (right). Porfirio Díaz appears below Juárez, with a sword. At the bottom right, Vincente Guerrero's execution at Cuilapan is shown, and the left wall shows ancient Mitla.