Mexico Guide
Oaxaca
Mercado 20 de Noviembre
The most animated market is the Mercado 20 de Noviembre, three blocks south of the zócalo, a cacophony of sights, smells and tastes. Indigenous women wander labyrinthine corridors amidst plumes of incense, inviting you to try curious Oaxacan dishes such as chapulines (crunchy baked grasshoppers) and chicharrones (crispy pork fat). An intriguing place to eat, the market is lined with comedores serving inexpensive food, such as chiles rellenos and tamales, although the quality varies, so it's best to eat at one of the more popular spots. Surrounding the market are also clusters of mescal stores where you can, rather dangerously, taste before you commit to buying. Distilled from the sugar solution at the heart of the maguey plant, it is a locally acclaimed panacea when mixed with herbs. These days, the dead worm at the bottom is nothing more than a gimmick and a stamp of authenticity – if you get that far. The smell of Oaxacan chocolate, the food of the gods, according to Maya tradition, lingers on the corner of Mina and 20 de Noviembre, where there are a number of mills that grind cacao beans. One of the best places in this area to try a mug of hot chocolate laced with almond, cinnamon, sugar or chile is Mayordomo, the Willy Wonka of Oaxaca; you can also buy mole and other chocolate delicacies.