Mexico Guide
Oaxaca
Eating
1 La Casa de la Abuela Hidalgo 616 Touristy and with erratic service, but the great views over the zócalo from the second floor are what you're paying for. Serves locally inspired takes on classic dishes, tailored to an American palette.
2 Del Jardín Portal de Flores 10, on the zócalo One of the best cafés on the zócalo for a coffee or cocktail and some people watching. Don't go for the food, but if hunger overwhelms you there is a passable, if uninspired, menu of soups, sandwiches, enchiladas and snacks.
3 Antigua Reforma 401 Close to Santo Domingo, this café is a popular breakfast choice, with a range of American, Continental and Mexican combinations. There's also a selection of pastries and sandwiches for a quick lunch, and a lively post-dinner scene with wine, mescal and gourmet liqueur coffees.
4 El Biche Pobre Calzada de la República 600, in Colonia Jalatlaco 
951/513-4636 A 10min walk from the centre of town, this longstanding, reasonably priced family restaurant is popular with locals and tourists alike, serving generous portions of Oaxacan favourites. The botano surtido is a great way to start a meal. Opening time: Open lunch time only
5 Biznaga García Vigil 512 951/516-8000 Inside a lemon-walled courtyard festooned with artwork, a chalk-board outlines the daily menu, which usually ranges from wholesome salads and soups to pastor-style (tomato, oil, cilantro) fish and chicken milanesa filled with cheese. Some of the more elaborate dishes can fall short of their adjective-heavy descriptions, but when it's good it's delicious. Service can be frustratingly slow – sip one of the excellent margaritas while you wait. Main dishes average M$100.
6 Café Gecko 5 de Mayo 412 Come here for inexpensive omelettes, yogurt and granola, coffee and snacks, which you can eat indoors or within a leafy courtyard. Opening time: Open until 8pm weekdays, 11pm at weekends
7 Café Olly García Vigil 409 Cheerful, convenient café offers good coffee, waffles, bagels, omelettes, cakes and smoothies in a bright and breezy courtyard surrounded by handicraft shops. There is also a temazcal sauna behind the café.
8 Cafetería Bamby García Vigil 205 Lively cafetería and tortería two blocks from the zócalo serving a reasonably priced comida corrida that can be hit or miss, and inexpensive beer. A good stand-by. The panadería next door has fresh, fragrant baked goods.
9 
Casa Oaxaca García Vigil 407 951/514-4173. Contemporary Mexican cuisine with an international twist from chef Alejandro Olmedo. Dishes such as chiles stuffed with ceviche, red snapper coated with guajillo sauce and a decadent chicken mole are served in the candlelit courtyard of the hotel of the same name. Service is formal and charming, entrees are upwards of M$145. Reservations must be made in advance. A sister restaurant at Constitución 104, by the church of Santo Domingo, is less romantic but with equally memorable food.
10 La Crêpe Alcalá 307. There may not be much Oaxacan flavour to the food, but the smart, lively setting – popular with locals young and old – and convenient location overlooking Alcalá make this a great international choice. Sweet and savoury crepes, fruit salads, ice creams and a range of excellent sandwiches and salads are served at decent prices. Good dessert stop-off when the music draws the pre-party crowd.
11 Los Danzantes Alcalá 403 951/501-1184 A slick, nouveau-design setting, good cocktails – try the mescal margarita – and imaginative dishes like mango- and mint-infused octopus, shrimp ceviche, barbecue chicken strips tossed with fried cactus and Oaxacan chocolate soufflé make this one of the best choices in town. The friendly staff are efficient and graciously opinionated. Prices start from around M$120.
12 El Manantial Vegetariano Tinoco y Palacios 303. Vegetarian Mexican breakfasts, affordable veggie burgers and fruit shakes are the order of the day at this small but excellent whole-food restaurant. The Sun buffet (M$50) is a bargain.
13 Marco Polo Pino Suárez 806 951/501-1184 Daily fresh seafood specials in a snug, rustic setting right by the Parque Juárez (aka El Llano). There's a lovely outdoor patio and a brick oven; very good fish dishes – refreshingly not all fried – and wonderful ceviche are the menu highlights. Not the best value for money in town, but certainly a very pleasant way to spend an evening.
14 Maria Bonita Alcalá 706 951/516-7233. Family-run restaurant one block north of Santo Domingo, serving reasonably priced Oaxacan specialities. Start with the appetizer platter that includes tasajo (beef strips), fried squash blossoms, mole tamales, quesillo (string cheese) and tlayudas topped with lard. Average main dishes cost about M$70. Breakfasts are good, too – try the enfrijoladas, tortillas filled with beans and Oaxacan string cheese and then baked.
15 La Olla Reforma 402 951/516-6668. Quaint, relaxed café/gallery with a reliable breakfast menu featuring enchiladas and chilaquiles as well as wholesome choices like wheat toast, generous fruit salads with granola and yogurt, vegetable salads and hot drinks.
16 Panini Matamoros 200-A Closet-sized sandwich joint that serves inexpensive, fantastic panini made with squidgy ciabatta bread and oozing with all manner of fillings and flavours; the chicken mole is wonderful. There are also excellent home-made cakes and more virtuous salads.
17 Pizza Nostrana Allende 150. While Oaxaca's Italian culinary reputation is nonexistent, this is the best option in town for well-executed and varied pasta dishes with a vegetarian slant. The intimate, old-fashioned atmosphere and its location close to Santo Domingo lend a romantic, relaxed vibe.
18 Alex Díaz Ordaz 218, at Trujano 951/514-0715 Popular with locals and travellers alike, this boisterous Mexican-style diner on the corner of a noisy thoroughfare offers extensive breakfast combination menus ranging from omelettes and hot cakes to refried beans, huevos rancheros and fresh fruit licuados. Prices are fair unless you choose from the a la carte selections.
19 Los Girasoles 20 de Noviembre 102 Mid-priced, no-frills food served in generous portions at this closet-sized, upbeat restaurant close to the market. There are some inexpensive options for vegetarians, especially good breakfasts and excellent mescal.
20 Red Las Casas 101 951/514-6853 A bustling, no-frills joint serving generous portions of whole fish dishes, mixed seafood soups, prawn cocktails, ceviche and octopus.