Mexico Guide
Oaxaca
Mazunte
Though it has grown in recent years, the tiny village of MAZUNTEremains an attractive, relaxed place with a beautiful beach. It's more peaceful than Zipolite, and lacking the hippie-party vibe. In addition, the surf is less powerful here, and at the western end of the beach, beyond the rocky outcrop, there's a smaller bay where the waves are even gentler and it's safer to swim.
The government-funded turtle museum ( 
958/584-3035, Tues– Sat 10am–4.30pm, Sun 10am–2.30pm; M$150, guided tours in Spanish every 15min), at the east end of the village, features an aquarium with some particularly large turtles and a turtle research centre. It's well worth the visit, especially as proceeds go towards the conservation of the majestic Golfina turtles that come here to breed.
Don't leave Mazunte without following the trail next to the Balamjuyuc, which runs past the remains of some unmarked ruins to Punto Cometa (a 30min walk) – a beautiful, natural park on top of the rocky headland next to Mazunte beach, and the southernmost point in Oaxaca, where you get breathtaking views at sunset. The "Jacuzzi," a rocky pool that fills with foamy surf as the waves rush in, can be accessed by scrambling down the rocks at the south end of the pool. Another nearby treat is the crocodile lagoon at Playa Ventanilla, about 2km to the west, where you can test your heart rate by going out on the water in a shallow boat to navigate among the scaly inhabitants. There are around four hundred in the lagoon, as well as a rich profusion of birdlife. It can be reached by colectivo, or by taxi (about M$40); the boat trips (M$50 person; lanchas accommodate 10) are arranged by the village co-operative, Servicios Ecoturísticas. The village co-op can also organize horse-riding tours in the area (around M$250).
A makeshift tourist booth on the main street (Hwy-200) keeps erratic hours but is an excellent source of information on accommodation and activities – a guide named Markus mans the office, and also leads tours and boat rides to spot turtles and other wildlife. Rafting trips can be arranged at La Empanada restaurant, where they are a much better deal than in nearby Huatulco.
All of the palapas on the beach have cabañas and hammock space, along with restaurants serving basic breakfasts, seafood and pasta. If you are equipped and feel so inclined, you can pitch your tent right along the beach. At the western end of the sandy stretch, pass the rocks to the second small bay for the area's best swimming, where the Posada del Arquitecto has hammocks and ecoconscious rooms with private bath (Price: M$250-350). Set discreetly up the hill, the 
Alta Mira ( 
www.labuenavista.com ; Price: M$350-500), under the same ownership as the Buena Vista in Puerto Ángel (see "Accommodation"), is the most comfortable place in town, with smart bungalows with tiled bathrooms and beautiful views from the terrace restaurant. The rooms do not have electricity, but that adds to the alluring atmosphere in the evening, when the bungalows are lit with candles. The friendly Cabañas Balamjuyuc ( 958/584-3035; Price: M$150–250) next door is a more relaxed option, with impressive views of the ocean and comfy, brightly coloured shared-bath cabañas. Massages are offered, as are turtle-viewing trips and surfing lessons. In the middle of the beach, Palapas El Mazunte is a popular backpacker hangout, with cheap rooms (Price: M$200-250), hammock and tent space and a packed café. At the east end of the beach, the friendly Cabañas Ziga ( 958/583-9295; Price: M$250-350), has a range of rooms with fan and mosquito net (the more comfortable rooms have private bathrooms), flower-filled gardens and glorious sea views from the patio restaurant, which serves decent Mexican and international fare. Posada Ariglan (Price: M$200–350), between San Agustinillo and Mazunte, is one of the best places in the area, with stunning views from its charming rooms; all have private baths (some with hot water) and fan, some "suites" have a/c and king-size beds.
There are some appealing food options, including the excellent Italian-run restaurant La Dolce Vita, on the main road, which has brick-oven pizza, pastas with seafood and occasional movies in the evenings. The best place for seafood is El Pescador, on the beach. Breakfasts and lighter meals are available throughout the day. La Empanada, also on the main road, offers Asian fusion – sushi and stir-fry – as well as fillers like hearty sandwiches on home-made bread and blended juices (try the delicious cucumber and lemon); the gregarious Tania, further along, has good-value Mexican fare. At the western end, on the sandy path that leads down to the beach, El Agujón is another great snack joint with delicious fresh bread, quesadillas, tortas and pizzas.