Mexico Guide
Northern Jalisco and Michoacán
Eating
1 Alta Fibra Sanchez 370, between Ocampo and Galeana As the name suggests, Alta Fibra specializes in high-fibre foods; the menu isn't strictly vegetarian, but is low fat. Excellent-value comida corrida (M$35), and a range of other bargain dishes. There's also a wholemeal bakery next door. Opening time: Closed Sun
2 El Asador upstairs at Moreno 466 Pleasant, reasonably priced restaurant specializing in grilled meat, such as carne asada (M$65) and arranchera (M$95), or meat on a platter with heaps of salsa, frijoles and tortillas as accompaniment. Try for a table by the window.
3 Birrieria Las Nueve Esquinas Colón 384 Peacefully set on a quiet plaza, this little restaurant serves up traditional Mexican mutton dishes and does and excellent birria de chivo (goat stew; M$49 or M$69).
4 Café Madoka Gonzalez Martínez 78 Big, traditional café, operating since 1959 and serving tasty breakfasts (especially the chilaquiles gratinados), soups and antojitos (mostly around M$50). You can also just play a game of dominoes and sip a coffee; try the "Café Madoka Especial", served with a dollop of vanilla ice cream.
5 Café Madrid Juárez 264 near Corona A smallish 1950s-style diner and coffee bar, good for moderately priced breakfasts (M$32), comidas corridas and sandwiches (8am–10pm). Try the queso fundido with chorizo (M$38).
6 
Cafe Red Ocampo 218 Cool little café – there's a wall of images of Frida Kahlo. It's a nice spot to relax with a magazine and a coffee, grab lunch (baguettes M$25, salads M$25–30) or a cheap beer (M$10). Open afternoons and evenings until 11pm or midnight. Opening time: Closed Sun
7 Caffe O Le Donata Guerra 25 Intimate city café with good lattes and complex infusions (such as cherry, banana and Jamaica blossom). Also a wide range of cakes and breakfast and coffee combos for around M$30.
8 La Chata Corona 126 Excellent medium-priced Mexican dishes, including mole and platillo jalisciense (chicken with side snacks; M$67). Hugely popular with local families since 1942. Extensive breakfasts go from M$61 and a big jug of sangria costs M$85.
9 Chong Wah Juárez 558 Moderately priced Cantonese food to eat in or take away. Their buffet lunch is very reasonable at M$48.
10 La Fonda de San Miguel Donata Guerra 25 
33/3613-0793 
www.lafondadesanmiguel.com In the heart of the centro histórico, this delightful restaurant is set in the courtyard of a former convent. The daytime tinkling fountain and caged birds are replaced at night by a constellation of pinprick lampshades in creative imitation of the night sky. Try the excellent sopa de tortillas (M$33), perhaps followed by the "Molcajete San Miguel" (M$90), a big stone mortar filled with a steaming stew of chicken, mushrooms, onions and cheese.
11 Lido Colón 294, at San Miguel Blanco Spanish-style bar and restaurant, serving good, moderately priced Mexican moles, sandwiches, snacks and a M$50 set menu. Opening time: Open 24 hours
12 Mariscos Galeana Galeana 154, at López Cotilla Seafood restaurant with prawn and octopus (M$55–95), among other delicious dishes; there's live music at lunch time.
13 Pastelería Luvier Colón 183 One of the best of many panaderías and pastelerias in the centre.
14 La Rinconada Morelos 86, at Callejón del Diable, Plaza Tapatía 33/3613-9914 In a glorious colonial setting, this moderately expensive restaurant serves seafood dishes (salmon with fine herbs or pimiento verde for M$89), US-style steaks (from M$135) and Mexican specialities. Their lunch buffet is good value at M$54.
15 El Tacazo Juárez 246 Fast, flavourful tacos; popular and cheap, though choices such as lengua (tongue) and cabeza (head) are not for the timid.
16 Taquería Los Faroles Corona 250 Popular taco and torta joint with a wide range of tacos served till midnight daily. It's a good place to have your first taste of torta ahogada (M$20), washed down with horchata.
17 Villa Madrid López Cotilla 551 at Gonzalez Martínez Great licuados, fruit salads and yogurt, as well as sandwiches and salads.
18 La China Poblana Juárez 887 Reasonably priced, traditional Puebla dishes, including mole and chiles en nogada.
19 Goa López Cotilla 1520 33/3615-6173 Guadalajara's only Indian restaurant, intimately lit and with Bollywood on the screen. Serves a range of excellent dishes, several straight out of the tandoor. Mains are mostly M$80 though several vegetarian options are only M$60. Opening time: Closed Mon
20 Los Itacates Chapultepec Nte 110, at Sierra 33/3825-1106 Traditional Mexican food (mains around M$50) with live-music evenings. Tables best booked in advance.
21 Pierrot Justo Sierra 2355 33/3630-2087 The city's finest French restaurant, in gracious surroundings and with attentive but never intrusive service. The duck in orange sauce and chocolate mousse are both spectacular. Opening time: Closed Sun evening
22 La Trattoria Niños Héroes 3051 33/3122-1817 The lively Italian restaurant is one of Guadalajara's best. Segundi piatti such as trout amandine and shrimp linguine go for around the M$130 mark. Evening reservations recommended.
23 Café San Pedro Juárez 81 Tlaquepaque's best coffee, with seating under the portales and a great range of teas and cakes.
24 Casa Fuerte Independencia 224 33/3635-9015 Pleasant courtyard restaurant in a majestic mansion. Enjoy the live accompaniment, often mariachi, while you sample the likes of tamarind shrimp or salmon in caper butter.