Mexico Guide
Mexico City
Eating
1 Café Bertico Madero 66 Spacious and friendly café specializing in pasta dishes (M$63), gelati (M$20) and even sushi (from M$45). Also good for breakfast and great coffee. Metro Zócalo.
2 Café de Tacuba Tacuba 28 Good coffee and excellent food at a price, though this doesn't deter the folk who've been packing it out since 1912. One of the country's top rock bands is sponsored by the café and thus bears its name. Metro Allende.
3 Café Emir Uruguay 45 Modernized café that's been operating since 1936 and serves good espresso, empanadas and a Mexican variation on baklava. Metro Zócalo.
4 Café el Popular 5 de Mayo 52 Cheap place serving simple food 24hr a day. It's almost always crowded, despite the perennially surly service. The turnover is pretty fast, so it's great for breakfast (M$30–43), coffee and snacks. There is a second branch called Café la Pagoda at 5 de Mayo 10. Metro Allende.
5 Casa de los Azulejos Madero 4 Flagship Sanborn's restaurant in a wonderful sixteenth-century building, with prime seating around a fountain in an enclosed three-storey courtyard. Food is Sanborn's stock in trade of well-prepared Mexican staples, though a little overpriced of course for what you get. Breakfasts go for M$60–90, chicken fajitas for M$90 and comidas corridas for M$90–140. Metro Bellas Artes.
6 
Danubio Uruguay 3 
55/5512-0912 
www.danubio.com Established restaurant that has specialized in seafood since 1936. As ever, the best deals are the set lunches, in this case a full six courses for M$130, though you can also order from the menu, with most dishes priced at M$90–150. Metro San Juan de Letrán.
7 Dulcería de Celaya 5 de Mayo 39 A wonderful shop for sweet lovers, with all kinds of sticky delights including dulce de membrillo and candied-fruit comates. Metro Allende.
8 El Generalito Filomeno Mata 18 A small but nicely done-out diner, with breakfasts (M$20–30) and comidas corridas (M$40) in pleasant surroundings. Metro Allende.
9 Los Girasoles Plaza Manuel Tolsá, Tacuba 8/10, 55/5510-3281 www.restaurantelosgirasoles.com One of the most appealing restaurants in the centre, with Mediterranean decor, a casual atmosphere and great food served up at moderate prices. Start with the blue corn quesadillas (M$40) and perhaps follow with the turkey in tamarind sauce (M$100) served up on an ornate pewter platter bursting with sunflowers, then finish with a rose-petal pie (M$60) and espresso. Opening time: Closes 9pm on Sun, midnight other days Metro Allende.
10 Hostería de Santo Domingo Belisario Dominguez 72 55/5526-5276 Full of character, this moderately priced restaurant in part of a former convent looks great, with decorations hanging from the ceiling, artesanía all over the walls and, usually, a pianist and singer in the corner. The food, though good, isn't quite as good as they seem to think it is; even their signature chiles en nogada (M$180) is better done elsewhere. Note that a compulsory tip is added to the bill. Metro Allende.
11 Jugos Canada 5 de Mayo 49 Very good torta and juice bar with decent prices, despite its central location. Metro Allende.
12 Kam Ling Cerrada de 5 de Mayo 14 55/5521-5661 Straightforward Chinese food in seriously large proportions to eat in or take away. Set menus go for M$50–100, and there are individual dishes (M$50–80) such as squid and green pepper in oyster sauce, and chicken and vegetables, all washed down with huge pots of jasmine tea (M$20). Metro Allende.
13 Pastelería Ideal Uruguay 74 Bakery with a good range of pastries, but worth a special visit to see the huge array of outrageously ornate wedding cakes. Metro San Juan de Letrán.
14 Restaurant Bar Chon Regina 160 Eating here is almost a dare, with starters such as mescal worms, escamoles (ant eggs) or chapulines (grasshoppers), served with or without guacamole. If you prefer a main course from outside the insect kingdom, there's frogs' legs, armadillo in mango sauce or chamorro al pilbil (leg of pork barbecued in a hole in the ground). All in all, a veritable eating adventure, with main courses at M$100–180. Metro Merced.
15 Tacos Beguis Isabel la Católica 10 Bustling little restaurant serving a great range of tacos (from M$10), tortas, tostadas and breakfasts. There's also a good-value lunch-time menu at M$40. Metro Allende.
16 Teposnieves Donceles 4 Local firm selling delicious sorbets in a range of fruit flavours, plus some unlikely ones, such as peanut, rice and tequila. Metro Bellas Artes.
17 La Terraza 7th floor of Hotel Majestic Restaurant with a great terrace that's perfect for watching Zócalo life go by over a coffee or a beer (M$20–30). The buffet breakfast (7–11am; M$120) and buffet menú comercial (Mon– Fri 1–5pm; M$90) are also both good, and in the evening there's à la carte dining with well-prepared Mexican standards for M$100–120, with a barbecue buffet ranchero for lunch at weekends (Sat & Sun 1–5pm; M$160). Metro Zócalo.
18 La Vasconia Tacuba 73 One of the best bread and cake shops in the centre, with a huge range of Mexican staples at low prices. Metro Allende.
19 El Vegetariano Filomeno Mata 13 Nonsmoking vegetarian restaurant that's inexplicably decorated with mountain photos. The best deal is usually the healthy four-course menú del día (M$63). Metro Zócalo.
20 Vegetariano Madero upstairs at Madero 56 This sunny, spacious vegetarian restaurant lurks behind an unprepossessing stairway entrance but offers some of the best-value vegetarian food around, usually with piano accompaniment at lunch time. The four-course M$50 menú del día is especially good value, though they also do great breakfasts (from 8am). Metro Zócalo.
21 Café del Palacio inside Bellas Artes An elegant restaurant in Art Deco surroundings. Enjoy limited views of Tamayo's murals as you dine amid business lunchers and pre-theatre diners. Meals are moderately priced, especially if you go for the two-course menú del Palacio (available 2–5pm; M$200). Dishes include Waldorf salad, turkey breast and blue cheese sandwich, duck in hibiscus sauce, and almond and pear tart, plus there's a decent wine list. Closes 5.30pm. Metro Bellas Artes.
22 Cafetería El Cuadrilatero Luis Moya 73 Like Mexico City's other wrestling cafés, El Cuadrilatero ("the ring") is owned and run by an ex-wrestler whose old masks are framed on the walls along with photos of his glory days. The food's good, including standard Mexican mains, burgers and tortas (M$25–120) that are big enough for a wrestler or two mere mortals (the biggest of all comes free if you can eat it yourself in under 15min). Metro Balderas.
23 Chung King Dolores 27 Reasonable chop suey house, one of several in the city's mini-Chinatown, serving the usual standards (chop suey, chow mein, sweet and sour, etc). Set meals M$70–190. Metro Bellas Artes.
24 Barro-Barroco Londres 211 Small and peaceful café a little away from the main bustle of the Zona, serving coffee, baguettes, breakfasts and light meals at prices that are modest for the area. Metro Insurgentes.
25 Blah Blah Café Londres 171, at Florencia Café, bar and Argentine grill, where an executive steak lunch will set you back around M$140. Metro Insurgentes.
26 Champs Elysées Reforma 316 55/5514-0450 One of the capital's finer French restaurants, this place has been reliably feeding the Mexico City elite for almost forty years. Look out on El Ángel as you feast on truly excellent food, complemented by something from the extensive wine list, delicate desserts and a great cheeseboard. Expect to pay M$500 for a full meal. Reservations required. Opening time: Closed Sun Metro Insurgentes.
27 La Lanterna Reforma 458, at Toledo 55/5207-9969 Long-standing and convivial trattoria with an intimate and suitably Italian feel, enhanced by pasta freshly made in-house and combined with some delicious sauces (M$110). The segundi piatti (M$140–150) are equally wonderful. Pizzas go for M$120. Metro Insurgentes.
28 Restaurante Vegetariano Yug Varsovia 3 www.yug.com.mx Worthy contact point for vegetarians and vegans, with set breakfasts, salads and antojitos in bright cheery surroundings. There's a particularly good buffet lunch upstairs (1–5pm; Mon– Fri M$70, Sat & Sun M$80) and a great comida corrida (M$60–70). Opening time: Mon– Fri 7am–9pm, Sat & Sun 8.30am–8pm Metro Insurgentes.
29 El Trompito Londres 119 If you're looking for a cheap snack amid the Zona's tourist traps, this modest little taquería could be the oasis you need, with tacos, tortas and alambres (small kebabs) at low prices in clean surroundings. Metro Insurgentes.
30 Agapi Mu Alfonso Reyes 96 55/5286-1384 www.agapimu.com.mx About the best Greek restaurant in the city, but very low-key and affordable as long as you don't go too mad on the retsina and Hungarian wines. It's especially fun from Thurs to Sat, when there's live music and Greek dancing. Opening time: Closes at 6pm on Sun and Mon Metro Juanacatlán or Patriotismo.
31 Bellini's 45th floor, World Trade Center, Av de las Naciones 55/9000-8325 or 05 Revolving restaurant at the top of the city's tallest building (see "Insurgentes"), where business people come to impress their clients, and the romantically inclined come for a candlelit dinner. Dishes from an international menu are prepared to the highest standards and service is impeccable. Obviously not the cheapest place in town, but not stupidly expensive either: even at the top end of the menu, you can start with smoked salmon, caviar and avocado for M$190, followed by red snapper in lobster and brandy sauce for M$180.
32 Café la Gloria Vicente Suarez 43 Pleasant little bistro serving pasta dishes, salads or the likes of chicken in tarragon sauce (M$88) or filet mignon (M$166). Tasty desserts include profiteroles, chocolate mousse or blueberry cheesecake. Metro Patriotismo or Juanacatlán.
33 Don Asado Michoacán 77 55/5286-0789 www.donasado.com Wonderful char-grilled steaks (M$100–140) and chivitos (pork steaks; M$85–120) are the speciality of this Uruguayan restaurant. It's invariably full, with patrons spilling onto the street, so it's worth booking ahead. Metro Patriotismo or Juanacatlán.
34 Fonda Garufa Michoacán 93 55/5286-8295 Popular Argentine and Italian restaurant with plenty of streetside tables where you can tuck into excellent steaks or something from their extensive range of inventive pasta dishes, all at moderate prices. Metro Patriotismo or Juanacatlán.
35 Koffie! Café Amsterdam 308, at Celaya Modern café spilling out onto a quiet leafy street, making it a great spot for a M$45–60 weekend breakfast, especially if you like good strong coffee. Later on, Italian salads, pasta dishes and stuffed baguettes all come in at around M$50–70. Metro Sevilla.
36 Neve Gelato Michoacán 126 They do crepes and cakes here, but what draws the crowds is the luscious ice cream in flavours fruity (soursop, black cherry, mamey) or nutty (toasted almond, amaretto, hazelnut, tiramisú). One scoop for M$20, two scoops for M$35. Metro Patriotismo or Juanacatlán.
37 Segundo Paso Café Amsterdam 76, at Parras Relaxed, low-lit corner restaurant and café, open on both sides to pavement seating. Salads, pasta dishes and mains such as chicken breast served with al dente vegetables are all well prepared. Most mains M$70–130. Metro Juanacatlán.
38 El Zorzal corner of Alfonso Reyes and Tamaulipas 55/5273-6023 Argentine steakhouse serving up some juicy slices of steer at M$120–200, and alfajor pastries or crepes filled with dulce de leche for dessert. Metro Patriotismo.
39 Bistro Charlotte Lope de Vega 341, at Presidente Masaryk 55/5105-4194 Great little lunch-time bistro where they change the menu every fortnight or so and always offer an interesting and international selection (roast beef and Yorkshire pudding is not unknown). Main courses M$95–170. Only open 1–6pm, and closed Sat. Metro Polanco.
40 La Ciudad de Colima Horacio 522, at Lamartine. Smashing little jugería with some unusual jugos such as starfruit (carambola), kiwi, sapodilla (zapote) and mamey. Metro Polanco.
41 Denominación de Origen Hegel 406, at Presidente Masaryk 55/5255-0612 www.denominaciondeorigendo.com.mx Classy modern Spanish restaurant with a long bar, lots of whole hams, a whiff of cigars and dishes like bacalao a la vizcaína (saltfish Basque-style, in tomato sauce), confit of rabbit with cava or a superb Andalucian gazpacho. Main courses go for M$125–250. Metro Polanco.
42 Eltuca's Newton 116, at Lamartine 55/5545-8388 or 9 Forget the rubbish they sell at the international franchise chains: what you get here are proper burgers, made from sirloin steak and grilled over charcoal. You don't get them flipped in an instant, but they're worth the wait, and for non-carnivores there are salads and veggieburgers too. Home delivery available within Polanco. Metro Polanco.
43 Los Girasoles Presidente Masaryk 275 55/5282-3981 www.restaurantelosgirasoles.com Polanco branch of the renowned downtown eatery, upstairs in a swish little shopping mall. Main courses around M$150. Metro Polanco.
44 La Petite France Presidente Masaryk 360 55/5281-0327 Swanky French restaurant whose starters include no fewer than four different snail dishes, with main courses such as coq au vin, fondue or roast duck in hibiscus sauce, but no frogs' legs. Main courses around M$150. Metro Polanco.
45 Terra de Galicia Alejandro Dumas 7, at Campos Elisios 55/5280-7737 Sleek, modern restaurant and tapas bar, all frosted glass and pinewood, specializing in the cuisine of Galicia, the northwestern-most region of Spain. As well as great tapas and Spanish beer (should you want it – Mexican beer is frankly a lot better), there are Galician specialities such as callos gallegos (tripe Galician-style, M$55), or the classic Galician signature dish, pulpo gallego (octopus seared in olive oil with paprika, M$180). Metro Polanco.
46 El Zorzal corner of Anatole France and Oscar Wilde 55/5280-0111 Polanco branch of the Condesa Argentine steakhouse. Metro Polanco.
47 Addetto Revolución 1382 55/5663-5434 Smart modern Italian establishment combining a deli and spacious dining areas. It is a little inconveniently sited, but worth the journey for delightfully sticky risotto dishes (M$80–140), pasta (M$50–160) and a wide range of mains (M$100–170). There's a M$20 per head cover. Metro Barranca del Muerto.
48 El Arroyo Insurgentes Sur 4003, Tlalpan, 6km south of San Ángel 55/5573-4344 Well off the beaten path, and open only until 8pm daily, but worth the journey, this unusual restaurant comes complete with its own small bullring (used by novice bullfighters in bloodless corridas from April to Oct) and has almost a dozen dining areas that can jointly serve over 2500 diners. As you'd imagine, there's always a lively atmosphere, helped along by mariachis, but the Mexican food is good too, and they usually keep at least four types of flavoured pulque.
49 Café Solo Dios Plaza San Jacinto 2 Popular hole-in-the-wall café and takeout spot with great espressos, frappés and the usual variations, made from fine Chiapas beans.
50 Crêperie du Soleil Madero 4-C Small and peaceful café that's good for an espresso, cakes and, of course, crepes.
51 Fonda San Ángel Plaza San Jacinto 3 55/5550-1641 www.fondasanangel.com.mx Moderately priced restaurant specializing in contemporary Mexican cuisine. Main courses M$90–120.
52 San Ángel Inn Diego Rivera 50 at Altavista 55/5616-2222 Built in the late seventeenth century, this former Carmelite monastery has been an elegant restaurant since 1915, with a sumptuous garden setting, linen tablecloths, heavy wooden furniture and a refined air (jackets required for men). Just about every visiting dignitary comes here, as do many tourists (it is included on many day-trip itineraries). The menu has some European overtones, but is predominantly Mexican, featuring some slightly less common dishes such as huitlacoche, a kind of fungus that grows on corn, served in crepes. Expect to pay at least M$250 per head plus wine (M$60–100 a glass). Reservations required.
53 Café El Parnaso (aka Café Frida) Carillo Puerto 2 Predominantly sidewalk café with attached bookstore; a good spot for light snacks or just a coffee.
54 El Globo corner Hidalgo and Caballocalco. Local outpost of this excellent chain of French-inspired bakeries. Pricey but very good.
55 El Jolgorio Higuera 22 Modern restaurant with an avant-garde menu, almost half of it meat-free. The imaginative combinations aren't always a success, but try one of their excellent salads (M$60–70, half-portion M$40), or one of the M$75–100 mains, including chiles stuffed with spinach and mushrooms, or some strange interpretations of Indian dishes, such as "tandoori rice" (rice with apple sauce and cashews, which are considered Indian because they're called nueces de la India in Spanish), or chicken breast with apple chutney, curried carrots and apple and raisin sauce. Wash your food down with one of their "spiritual" non-alcoholic cocktails.
56 El Tajín Centro Veracruzano, Miguel Ángel de Quevedo 687 55/5659-4447 Veracruz specialities at medium to high prices; the fish dishes, such as huachinango a la Veracruzana and mojarra al mojo del ajo, are exquisite. Expect to pay around M$200 per head plus wine.
57 La Vienet Viena 112, at Abasolo A good place for refreshments in between visits to the Kahlo and Trotsky houses, this small daytime café serves great coffee and cakes as well as breakfasts and lunch-time menus (M$110–120). Closed at weekends.