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Mexico Guide

Baja California and the Pacific Northwest

Bahía Concepción

    There is good diving and fishing immediately around Mulegé, but the best beaches are between 10km and 50km south of town along the shore of Bahía Concepción. The bay ranges from 3km to 6.5km wide, is 48km long and is enclosed on three sides and dotted with islands. The blue-green waters, peaceful bays and white-sand beaches are beautiful and relatively undeveloped – though you will at times find teams of RVs lining the waters – and it's a good place to break your journey for a day or so before travelling south. As far as kayaking goes, there are few places better than Bahía Concepción.

    The best stretches of sand include Playa Punta Arena, at Km 118, then another 2km on a dirt road, where there are some basic palapa shelters to rent. Playa Santispac, some 5km further on, is right on the highway – despite the early stages of development and occasional crowds of RVs, it still has plenty of room to camp (for a fee) and enough life to make staying here longer-term a realistic option, though there are free open palapas to hang out under during the day if you just want to stop for a swim. Posada Concepción, just south of Santispac, shows the beginnings of Cabo-style development and has permanent residents; Author Pick EcoMundo here, at Km 111 (no phone, www.ecomundobaja.com ; camping M$100, palapas Price: M$150-200), is an environmentally minded place offering standard palapa and tent accommodation, plus they rent out kayaks for a day or longer (from M$200/day, reservations a must). Facilities include a barbecue pit, an excellent little bookshop and a bar.

    If you keep to the right on the EcoMundo road you'll pass around a bend and 1km thereafter arrive at the rather secluded Playa Escondida (no phone). Few trailers can make it over the hump, so the campground is more hospitable to tent campers. It is rustic (cold showers and outhouses) and there are no services.

    Further south there are few facilities for anything other than camping: Playa El Coyote, where there's also a hot spring, and Playa El Requesón, another couple of popular, beautiful beaches, are the last and the best opportunities for this (M$50 for each). Note that there's no fresh water available at either, but locals drop by in the early morning and afternoon selling everything from water to fresh shrimps. Your other best bet is renting kayak, snorkelling or scuba equipment from the reputable Las Parras Tours in Loreto.