Mexico Guide
Acapulco and the Pacific beaches
The Costa Alegre
The stretch of coast known as the Costa Alegre starts about 100km south of Puerto Vallarta. If you are heading down the coast and feel like breaking your journey, the Bahía de Chamela lies 130km south of Puerto Vallarta and comprises a huge, sweeping arc of superb beaches and nine islands, which are popular dive spots. Although large luxury hotels are cropping up with alarming frequency, you can still find long sections of untouched beach where you can pitch a tent. To reach Playa Perula, at the northern end of the bay, it's a one-kilometre walk or drive down a dusty track from Hwy-200. There's a small village and you can stay at the average, fourteen-room Hotel Punta Perula ( 
315/333-9782; Price: M$200-250), one block north of the main road, or, for slightly more, comfortable, clean rooms with shared kitchen and wheelchair access are available at Hotel Vagabunda ( 315/333-9446; Price: M$350-500), two blocks from the beach at Independencia 100.
A little further south on Hwy-200 there's another unpaved road that leads to Playa Chamela. Here, the Paraíso Costa Alegre ( 315/333-9778; Price: M$500-750) has attractive oceanfront cabañas surrounded by palm trees as well as full hook-ups for RVs (Price: M$200-250). The basic Bungalows Meyer Chamela ( 315/285-5252; Price: M$200-250) has palatable rooms with fan, kitchen and an on-site pool. Otherwise, it's easy to camp on the beach. At Playa Careyes, an upmarket beach resort around 20km further south, expensive villas and luxurious hotels nestle in the hills, including El Careyes, Km 53.5 Hwy-200 ( 800/508-7923; Price: M$1500 and over), a chic resort with a spa in idyllic surroundings. Luxury, taste and style reach a zenith at 
Las Alamandas, Km 83.5 Hwy-200 ( 800/508-7923, 
www.lasalamandas.com ; Price: M$1500 and over), where beautifully designed villas and suites overlook a breathtaking one-kilometre stretch of private beach. Also at Careyes, endangered Olive Ridley turtles lay their eggs; biologists have recruited local activists and established a conservation programme – the turtles' eggs are collected before they fall victim to predators and then the babies are released after the eggs hatch in a laboratory.
Tenacatita, a further 40km south along the highway, is another gorgeous beach, with the added attractions of a mangrove lagoon that teems with birdlife and still, clear waters perfect for snorkelling. Lobster- and octopus-fishing is very popular here. The town's name means "red rocks" in Nahuatl; the indigenous people used the russet rocks you'll see to make pottery, ornaments and even to build homes. The restaurant on the beach organizes bird-watching boat trips and you can stay at the Hotel Paraíso Tenacatita ( 314/353-9623; Price: M$250-350), which has a restaurant and simple rooms built round a courtyard. It's also possible to visit Tenacatita from Barra de Navidad.
Most people choose to press on to the twin towns of Barra de Navidad and San Patricio-Melaque, 30km further south and among the most enticing destinations on this entire stretch of coastline. They are not undeveloped or totally isolated – indeed, families from Guadalajara come here by the hundreds, especially at weekends – but neither are they at all heavily commercialized: just small, simple and very Mexican resorts. The entire bay, the Bahía de Navidad, is edged by fine sands and, if you're prepared to walk (30min along the beach), you can easily leave the crowds behind. Or, regular buses and colectivos connect the two communities.