Mexico Guide

Trips from Puerto Vallarta

For the more peaceful and scenic beaches further south – Playa Las Animas, Quimixto and Yelapa are the most common destinations – a boat trip is the only means of access. Travel agents all over town tout a variety of excursions, most of which leave from the marina. Miller Tours, at Paseo de las Garzas 100, between Hotel Krystle and Hotel Crown Paradise in Nuevo Vallarta ( 322/224-0585), and Vallarta Adventure, at the marina ( 322/221-0657, www.vallarta-adventures.com ), both have good reputations, though compare prices and what's on offer in the way of food and drink – if meals are not included, it's worth taking your own food along. A much cheaper way to travel is via water taxi. These depart from Playa de los Muertos for Quimixto, Las Animas and Yelapa at 11am, returning from all destinations at about 4pm. Alternatively, you can catch a bus to Boca de Tomatlán, from where about five water taxis a day, starting at 10.30am, sail to all three destinations.

Unfortunately, the once-remote beauty of many of the southern beaches has been tainted by the invasion of PV tour groups. That said, a number are still quite lovely: Quimixto's crystal waters are home to a colourful profusion of exotic marine life. Las Animas is a larger bay and a base for a variety of water sports, including jet skiing, banana boats and parasailing. At Yelapa there's a small "typical" indigenous village not far from the white-sand beach, and a waterfall a short distance into the jungle. Marketed as an "untouched paradise", it's really more of a luxurious, if rustic, retreat with a contrived alternative vibe – there's no electricity, but long-distance phones, sushi and massages are all on offer. A short hike through the jungle leads to the Cascada Cola de Caballo, a small waterfall where you can swim. If you've got the time and money, stay for the night, as the beach empties as the sun sets, becoming the perfect spot for total rest and relaxation. Hotel Lagunita ( 322/209-5055, www.hotel-lagunita.com ; Price: M$750-1100) has beautiful open-air cabañas, a pool and beachfront restaurant serving Mexican and international food, but it's easy to camp on the beach, or with luck you might be able to rent a hut for very little. At Majahuitas, between Quiximito and Yelapa, accessed by private boat from Boca de Tomatlán, the eponymous resort is a guaranteed love-it or leave-it experience: posh tree houses have no electricity, and communal meals are served by candlelight. It's not for those who like a fluffy robe and food available at a whim (US 1-800/508-7923, www.mexicanboutiquehotels.com/majahuitas ; Price: M$1500 and over).

If you want to go snorkelling or scuba diving at the southern beaches, tours are led by Chico's Dive Shop, Díaz Ordaz 772, on the malecón (daily 8am–10pm; 322/222-1895, www.chicos-diveshop.com ). You can rent gear here, too (M$400/day for a mask, snorkel and fins; M$790 for a two-tank dive to Los Arcos). It is usually too stiflingly humid to consider anything as energetic as mountain biking, but Bike Mex ( 322/223-1834), Guerrero 361, just north of the upper river bridge, rents out bikes (M$200/day, with maps of the surrounding area), but prefers you to take one of their organized tours into the jungly slopes behind the town and beyond (from M$500).