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Canada Guide

Vancouver Island

Tofino

TOFINO, most travellers' target base in Pacific Rim National Park, is showing the adverse effects of its ever-increasing tourist influx, but locals are keeping development to a minimum, clearly realizing they have a vested interest in preserving the salty, waterfront charm that brought them – and visitors – here in the first place. Crowning a narrow spit, the fishing village has a superb situation, bounded on three sides by tree-covered islands and water, a location that graces it with magnificent views and plenty of what the tourist literature refers to as "aquaculture". As a service centre it fulfils most functions, offering food, accommodation and a wide variety of boat and sea-plane tours, most of which have a whale-watching, surfing (Canada's best surf is close at hand) and fishing angle or provide a means to travel out to islands and hot springs close by. Sleepy in off-season, the place erupts into a commercial frenzy during the summer. Hippies, surfer types and easy-going family groups are the most visible visitors – though there's little to do in town other than walk its few streets, enjoy the views and soak up the casual atmosphere.

Whale-watching

1 Clayoquot Connections 606 Campbell St 250/725-3919 www.clayconnect.com They offer a relatively inexpensive ($25) tour of the harbour and Meares Island.

2 Ocean Outfitters 421 Main St 250/725-2866 or 1-877/90-OCEAN www.oceanoutfitters.bc.ca They offer a wide range of tours on rigid or zodiac boats.

3 Jamie's Whaling Station 606 Campbell St 250/725-3919 or 1-800/667-9913 www.jamies.com The longest-running such venture in Tofino (founded in 1982), which also offers a choice of zodiac boats or the twenty-metre Lady Selkirk, which comes with heated cabin. If you don't see whales, Jamie's offers vouchers which can be used on another trip.

4 Remote Passages At the bottom end of Wharf St 250/725-3330 or 1-800/666-9833 www.remotepassages.com Long-established (since 1986) tour operator that is a zodiac specialist.