Canada Guide

Nahanni National Park

With gorges deeper than the Grand Canyon and waterfalls twice the height of Niagara, the vast Nahanni National Park ( www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/nt/nahanni/index_e.asp ) ranks as one of the finest national parks in North America and one of the most rugged wilderness areas anywhere in the world. Located close to the Yukon border in the heart of the Mackenzie Mountains, it surrounds the South Nahanni River, a renowned 322-kilometre stretch of water whose white-water torrents, pristine mountains and 1200-metre-deep canyons have attracted the world's most eminent explorers and the ultimate thrill-seeking canoeists (the river is one of the best white-water runs in the world). Unless you fit one of these categories, however, or can afford to fork out for guided trips by boat or sightseeing by air – well worth the money, even if you're only out in the wilderness for a short time – there's no way of getting close to the best areas, even by backpacking: the park is totally roadless and totally wild. Also note that the popularity of trips means that there's a reservation and fee system for people wishing to use the river: the day-use fee is $19.80, the reservation fee for overnight trips $125, and there are strict quotas on numbers visiting the park, so check the latest details whether you intend to visit independently or with a tour. For full information, contact the Nahanni National Park Reserve Office ( 867/695-3151, Enahanni.info@pc.gc.ca ) or visitor centre in Fort Simpson.

For day-trips to the spectacular Virginia Falls, the most popular day outing in the park (usually with 2hr on the ground), contact Wolverine Air ( 867/695-2263 or 1-888/695-2263, www.wolverineair.com ) which will take groups of three people for a 5 hour flight in a float-plane to Nahanni for $1200, with stops at Virginia Falls and at the idyllic Little Doctor Lake at the edge of the mountain range. Simpson Air ( 867/695-2505, www.simpsonair.com ), whose offices are almost next door to Wolverine on the southwest edge of town – offer a slightly cheaper service but very similar trips. Simpson air also offers a flight in conjunction with a cabin rental on Little Doctor Lake – two or three days in romantic seclusion cost $1500 for two; a week $2400.