Canada Guide
The Maritime Provinces
Cape Breton Highlands National Park
The extensive Cape Breton Highlands National Park ( 
www.pc.gc.ca ), beginning 9km north of Chéticamp, offers some of the most gorgeous scenery anywhere in the Maritimes – a mix of deep wooded valleys, rocky coastal headlands, soft green hills and boggy upland. Although visitors get a sniff of the park travelling by car – 120km of hwy trimming all but its southern edge – the essence of the place is only revealed on foot: twenty-five hiking trails are signposted from the road, some of them the easiest of woodland strolls, others striking deep into the interior to the small lakes and wetlands of the central plateau. Most of the wildlife inhabits the inner reaches of the park: garter snakes, red-backed salamanders, snowshoe hares and moose are common, while bald eagles, black bear and lynx are rarer.
The park has two information kiosks – one at the west-coast entrance just beyond Chéticamp (daily: late June to late Aug 8am–8pm; mid-May to late June & late Aug to mid-Oct 9am–5pm; 
902/224-2306), the other at the east-coast entrance near Ingonish Beach (same details). There's also a visitor centre (same details) at the west-coast entrance with displays on local flora and fauna and a well-stocked bookshop. Both the visitor centre and the east-coast kiosk sell 1:50,000 maps, have details of the park's hiking trails (which are in peak condition from July to September), and issue backcountry camping permits ($18). There is a daily park entrance fee of $6.90 when the kiosks are staffed. The park has six serviced campsites ($22–31), all within easy reach of the road, and one wilderness campsite – Fishing Cove – along one of the more arduous trails. Campsite services are only available from mid-May to mid-October, but you can camp in the park at any time of the year. Reservations are not accepted.