Canada Guide
Southwest Québec
The Laurentians (Les Laurentides)
The slopes of the Laurentians, a vast sweep of coniferous forest dotted with hundreds of tranquil lakes and scored with rivers, was once Montréal's "wilderness back yard". Nowadays, winter sports have done away with the region's former tranquillity as thousands of Québecois take to the slopes at more than 25 ski resorts, causing mind-numbing traffic jams. Still, much of the land has remained relatively untouched – like the Parc National du Mont Tremblant – and the area is a must when autumn colours take over. The Laurentians really cater to families on a week's sporty vacation, and much of the accommodation is pricey, as it includes gyms, tennis courts, golf courses and the like. However, a smattering of B&Bs and numerous motels offer an alternative to those on a tight budget, as do the hostels in Val-David and Mont-Tremblant itself.
Two roads lead from Montréal to this area of the Laurentians: the Autoroute des Laurentides (Hwy 15) and the slower Hwy 117, which is the one to choose if you want to go antique-hunting, as there are a number of large shops around Piedmont. Limocar Laurentides ( 
514/842-2281 or 1-866/692-8899, 
www.limocar.ca ) offers a regular bus service from the Station Centrale d'Autobus de Montréal to most of the towns. Other than Tremblant – which costs a small fortune – rates for ski passes are around $40 a day in the decent areas, a few dollars more at weekends.