Canada Guide
Northern Québec
Îles-de-la-Madeleine
The archipelago of the Îles-de-la-Madeleine (Magdalen Islands), in the middle of the Gulf of St Lawrence some 200km southeast (and one hour ahead) of the Gaspé Peninsula and 100km east of Prince Edward Island, consists of twelve main islands, seven of which are inhabited. Six of these are connected by narrow sand spits and crossed by paved and gravel roads, while the last is only accessible by boat. Together these dozen islands form a crescent-shaped series of dunes, lagoons and low rocky outcrops that measures about 80km from end to end, with the main village and ferry port roughly in the middle at Cap-aux-Meules. The islands lie in the Gulf Stream, which makes the winters warmer than those of mainland Québec, but they are subject to almost constant winds, which have eroded the red-sandstone cliffs along parts of the shoreline into an extraordinary array of arches, caves and tunnels. These rock formations, the archipelago's most distinctive attraction, are at their best on the central Île du Cap-aux-Meules and the adjacent Île du Havre-aux-Maisons.
The ferry terminal at Cap-aux-Meules is near the tourist office, 128 chemin Principal (late June to Aug daily 7am–9pm; Sept to mid-Oct daily 9am–9pm; mid-Oct to late June Mon– Fri 9am–5pm; 
418/986-2245 or 1-877/624-4437, 
www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com ). With few inns, motels and hotels on the islands, it's a good idea to book a bed before you arrive. The cheapest way to stay is either at the hostel – where you can also camp – or one of the other half-dozen commercial campsites on the islands.
Every month except February and March a CTMA ferry goes to Cap-aux-Meules from Souris on Prince Edward Island (Souris 902/687-2181; Cap-aux-Meules 418/986-6600; Montréal 514/937-7656, www.ctma.ca/traversier-madeleine ) – the number of weekly departures varies from five to ten depending on the season (takes 5hr). Reservations are mandatory in July and August and need to be made several months in advance. You can also fly to the islands; the islands' airport is inconveniently situated at the north end of Île du Havre-aux-Maisons.The best way to tour the principal islands is by a bike, which may be rented at Le Pédalier, 365 chemin Principal, Cap-aux-Meules ( 418/986-2965).