Canada Guide
Manitoba and Saskatchewan
Grasslands National Park
Directly west of the Big Muddy, accessible along Hwy 18, the Grasslands National Park is predominantly mixed-grass prairie, a flat, bare badlands landscape broken up by splendid coulees, buttes and river valleys. Far from the moderating influence of the oceans, the area has a savage climate, with an average low in January of -22°C and temperatures that soar to 40°C in summer. Even so, this terrain is inhabited by many species that are adapted to cope with the shortage of water, from flora such as prairie grasses, greasewood, rabbit brush, sagebrush and different types of cacti, to fauna like the graceful pronghorn antelope, the rattlesnake and Canada's only colonies of black-tailed prairie dog.
Grasslands National Park consists of east and west sections separated by private ranches and farms, which the federal government eventually intends to buy, creating a single park stretching from Hwy 4 in the west to hwys 2 and 18 in the east. The west section is both more scenic and accessible, its limited system of gravel tracks and roads cutting in from hwys 8 and 4, south and east of VAL MARIE. This tiny township houses the Grasslands National Park Reception Centre, at the junction of Hwy 4 and Centre St (late May to Aug daily 8am–6.30pm; Sept to late May Mon– Fri 8am–4.30pm; 
306/298-2257, 
www.parkscanada.gc.ca/grasslands ), whose rangers provide advice on weather and road conditions, hand out maps, arrange for guided or self-guided eco-tours, issue camping permits and give tips on animal-spotting and hiking. The few places to stay in town include the Val Marie Hotel, 221 Centre St ( 306/298-2007 or 298-2003; Price: Up to $40), with seven basic rooms, and the far more attractive 
Convent B&B, 4515 Hwy 4 ( 306/289-4515; Price: $41-60), a converted convent with lots of character that is also the best place to eat in town. Opposite is a well-worn campsite ( 306/298-2022; $14; May– Oct). There are no campsites within the park, but camping is allowed within 1km of its roads if you have purchased a $9 backcountry permit; take a good supply of water, a stout pair of walking shoes and a stick to sweep in front of you in tall grass or brush as a warning to rattlesnakes.