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Canada Guide

Manitoba and Saskatchewan

Churchill

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Sitting on the east bank of the Churchill River where it empties into Hudson Bay, CHURCHILL has the neglected appearance of many of the settlements of the far north, its unkempt open spaces dotted with the houses of its mixed Inuit, Cree and white population. These grim buildings are heavily fortified against the biting cold of winter and the insects of the summer: ample justification for a local T-shirt featuring a giant mosquito above the inscription "I gave blood in Churchill". That said, the town has long attracted a rough-edged assortment of people with a taste for the wilderness, and nowadays tourists flock here for the wildlife, particularly the polar bears – a lifeline, now that Churchill's grain-handling facilities are underused.

Churchill tour operators

1 North Star Tours In the Bayport Plaza on Munck Street 204/675-2356 or 1-800/665-0670 This outfit is the best place to get a feel for what's on offer at any time of year. It's run by jolly third-generation locals who organize an excellent mini-bus tour of local sites (3hrs; $75) – which includes a good look for polar bears – but they won't hesitate to suggest, and even call, other companies for you if you have particular activities in mind.

2 Sea North Tours 39 Franklin St 204/675-2195 or 1-888/348-7591 www.seanorthtours.com A whale-watching specialist who offer trips by either zodiac or kayak (no experience necessary) and who can listen in on the belugas using stereo hydrophones (tours 3hr; $85). They also organise snorkelling trips, when visibility in the bay is good enough. Opening time: Mid-June to late Aug

3 Tundra Buggy Tours 204/675-2121 or 1-800/663-9832 www.tundrabuggy.com During prime polar bear season, they have a range of excursions in vehicles specially designed to avoid damaging the tundra (starting from $85 for a half-day tour) – some trips offer overnight lodge accommodation in the heart of the wilderness wildlife area. Opening time: July– Nov

4 Hudson Bay Helicopters 204/675-2576 or 1-867/873-5146 www.hudsonbayheli.com If you've arrived outside the main polar bear season consider splashing out on a flight; they can all but guarantee polar bear sights. Price: $460 per hour