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Canada Guide

Alberta and the Rockies

Waterton Lakes National Park

    Located in an isolated position well to the south of the other Canadian Rockies parks, WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK appears at first glance to be simply an addendum to the much larger Glacier National Park, which joins it across the US border. Despite its modest size, however, it contains scenery – and trails – as stupendous as any of the bigger Canadian Rockies parks. In particular this is a great place to come for day-hikes, most of which – unlike equivalent walks in Banff and Jasper – can be easily accessed from the park's principal focus, Waterton Village (or just Waterton).

    Founded in 1895, the park was relaunched in 1932 as an "International Peace Park" to symbolize the understated relationship between Canada and its neighbour. The two parks remain separate, but Canadian and US citizens who are backpacking can cross the border without formalities. However, if you're not a national of either country you're limited to using trails that begin and end in the same park unless you have secured visas in advance. To drive from one to the other, everyone has to exit the park and pass through immigration controls, which are as stringent as anywhere else. A park permit is required between April and the end of September for all who enter the park: a day-pass is $6.90 (yearly $34.65).

    Hikes in Waterton Lakes National Park

    Waterton Lakes' 255km of trails are among the best constructed in the Canadian Rockies, and also some of the most easily graded, well marked and scenically routed. Like Moraine Lake in Banff National Park – and unlike Banff and Jasper – you can also access superb walks easily without a car. Bar one or two outlying hikes, three key areas contain trails and trailheads: the townsite itself, which has two magnificent short walks; the Akamina Parkway; and the Red Rock Canyon Parkway. Most walks are day-hikes, climaxing at small alpine lakes cradled in spectacular hanging valleys. Options for backpacking are necessarily limited by the park's size, though the 36km Tamarack Trail, following the ridges of the Continental Divide between the Akamina Parkway (same trailhead as for Rowe Lakes – see below) and Red Rock Canyon, is rated as one of the Rockies' greatest high-line treks (maximum elevation 2560m); the 20km Carthew– Alderson Trail from Cameron Lake to Waterton (maximum elevation 2311m), a popular day's outing, can be turned into a two-day trip by overnighting at the Alderson Lake campsite. To do it in a day, take advantage of the hiker shuttle service to the trailhead offered by Park Transport ( 403/859-2378) based in the Tamarack Village Square on Mount View Road. In short, this is a great park in which to base yourself for a few days' hiking

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