Turkey Guide
The Turquoise Coast
Tlos
One of the most ancient of the Lycian cities, Tlos is situated beside the modern village of Asarkale. It is referred to in Hittite records of the fourteenth century BC as "Dalawa in the Lukka lands", and the discovery on the site of a bronze hatchet dating from the second millennium BC confirms the long heritage of the place. However, little else is known about its history, although it was numbered among the six principal Lycian cities.
The ruins themselves, while reasonably abundant, are in many cases densely overgrown or even farmed, so that the precise identification of buildings is debatable. The setting is undeniably impressive, a high rocky promontory that affords excellent views of the Xanthos valley. The acropolis hill is dominated by a Turkish fortress from the Ottoman period, the residence of a nineteenth-century brigand and local chieftain, Kanlı ("Bloody") Ali Ağa, who killed his own wayward daughter to defend the family reputation. Now used as a football pitch and pasture, it has obliterated all earlier remains on the summit. On its northeast side, the acropolis ends in almost sheer cliffs; on the eastern slope are traces of the Lycian city wall and a long stretch of Roman masonry.
Practicalities
There's patchy publictransport the full distance to Tlos, provided by Saklıkent-bound minibuses from Fethiye, which occasionally detour to the site. Tlos is, however, firmly established on the organized-excursion circuit, so you shouldn't have to shell out for a private taxi. Under your own steam, from Fethiye veer left 22km out of town towards Korkuteli, and once over the Koca Çayı bridge, bear immediately right onto the marked side-road to both Tlos and Saklıkent. Some 8.5km along, turn left (east) onto a signposted paved minor road; it's 4km up here to the base of the acropolis hill – which stays in constant view. In spring the route up, with snow-streaked Akdağ as a backdrop for the purple of flowering judas trees, is spectacularly beautiful. Coming from Patara, at Alaçat take the eastbound road marked "Saklıkent 15km"; when you reach a T-junction, with "Saklıkent" signposted opposite a mini-market for the right turning, bear left (north) instead, following a "Tloss" sign, for just over 2km until another "Tloss" sign points up the 4km of final approach.
Right opposite the ticket booth there are a couple of simple snack cafés run by the villagers of Asarkale. From the theatre just east, the onward road continues 3km uphill to several trout restaurants in the village of YAKA. Of these the most famous is the Yaka Park, formerly a watermill, where at the bar your drink is chilled in a sluice through which your potential dinner swims by. However too many tours have had an effect, and Rifat's Garden, 1km or so further, currently has the edge in terms of quality and service.
You can also stay overnight locally at the 
Mountain Lodge ( 
0252/638 2515, 
www.themountainlodge.co.uk ; open winter also by appointment), just under 2km down the road from the ruins entrance. Choose between well-appointed, carpeted, high-ceilinged en-suites in the garden annexe (Price: €32-49), or four air-conditioned luxury units (Price: €50-62) in the wing overlooking the pool and bar. Engaging proprietor Melihat prepares fine evening meals in an area thin on non-trout-based cuisine, served in the wood-beamed and stone pub-restaurant with a fire for the cooler months. She also organizes treks in the area and is knowledgeable about local flora.