Turkey Guide
The Turquoise Coast
Kekova island
Some of the most beautifully situated ruins on the south coast are in the area known as Kekova, after the eponymous offshore island. It's a stretch of rocky coastline littered with remains of Lycian settlements, some now submerged under the translucent waters of the calm, shallow, almost landlocked gulf here. Since the early 1990s land communications – both by road and by trail – have been improved, so the region is no longer the exclusive preserve of boat and yacht tours. Many Lycian ruins can be easily visited from the inlet-shore village of Üçağız,
The most romantically situated local antiquities are those submerged along the northern coast of Kekova island, known as Batık Şehir (Sunken City) locally, and to date not identified with any ancient city. The underwater remains of stairs, pavements, house walls and a long quay wall can all be seen; however snorkelling or even just swimming are banned to prevent the removal of antiquities from the area, and most boatmen won't approach the rocky shoreline (the best view is from a kayak; see below). Near the southwest tip of the island, at the spot known as Tersane (Dockyard), looms the apse of a long-vanished church, in whose shadow bathers spread their towels on fine shingle; unhappily, much of the apse collapsed during a particularly violent storm in February 1996.
Bougainville Travel in Kaş (www.bougainville-turkey.com) remains the principal organizer of sea-kayaking day-tours in the Kekova area, a wonderful, low-impact way of appreciating the eerie seascapes. They have the further advantage of allowing you to approach the shoreline, and the Batık Şehir in particular, much closer than the glass-bottomed cruise boats do, and also of using narrow, shallow channels off-limits to larger craft – which are, incidentally, your main threat, as you must be wary of their wake. With a suitable head covering and a water bottle secreted under your apron, you'll tolerate all but the hottest summer days, even wrapped inside a life vest. Trips often begin with a motorized tow from Üçağız to the starting point of your choice, for example Tersane; outings can be as long or short as stamina allows. Per-person rates, including a transfer from Kaş to Üçağız and a picnic lunch, are approximately €40 for a day's excursion.
Practicalities
Üçağız's pansiyons are simple, but often fairly pricey considering the remote location and lack of a beach. Although fresh water has been piped in from the environs of Gömbe, hot showers can still be erratic. The best and most secluded places both lie at the west end of the village. The stone-clad Kekova ( 
0242/874 2259; Price: €32-49) has relatively palatial air-conditioned rooms and a shared wrap-around balcony. Just beyond, the 
Ekin Hotel ( 0242/874 2064 or 0534/936 7783) sports a pleasant garden, clean, airy rooms in the original building (Price: €25-31) and a newer extension at the back (Price: €32-49) housing suites, with all-important insect screens plus air conditioning: it's run by cultured brothers Ali and Yusuf with a well-developed service ethic. The best budget option is the Nergiz ( 0242/874 2041; Price: €14-24), partially en-suite and run by the friendly Alıçavuzoğlu family; it's unmarked, but just opposite the primary school.
None of the several waterside restaurants offer especially good value: the most tolerable and durable is the Liman Marina (aka İbrahim's), where drinks and mezes are reasonably priced, though mains are expensive.