Turkey Guide
The Mediterranean coast and the Hatay
Termessos
Situated over a thousand metres above sea level 30km northwest of Antalya, the ancient site of Termessos is one of Turkey's prime attractions. Indeed, its dramatic setting and well-preserved ruins, tumbling from the summit of the mountain and enclosed within the boundaries of a national park – the Güllük Dağ Milli Parkı – merit a considerable journey.
Despite its close proximity to Lycia, Termessos was actually a Pisidian city, inhabited by the same warlike tribe of people who settled in the Anatolian Lakeland, around Isparta and Eğirdir, during the first millennium BC. The inhabitants of Termessos originally named themselves after the nearby mountain of Solymus – today's Güllük Dağ; their language, of which no surviving inscriptions remain, was a dialect of Pisidian, which Strabo called Solymian. The first mention of the Solymians comes in the ancient myth of Bellerophon and Pegasus, when Bellerophon, after defeating the monster of the Chimaera, was sent to fight them. The first appearance of the Solymians in history proper was in 333 BC, when Alexander the Great made an attack on the city and was repelled. Fourteen years later, Termessos played an interesting part in the history of the region when Antigonus – one of Alexander's successors – was challenged by Alcatus for command of the region. The Pisidians supported Alcatus, and he took refuge in Termessos. The elders of the city, however, saw the possible dangers involved in defying Antigonus and laid a trap for Alcatus, preparing to take him captive. Alcatus committed suicide; his body was delivered to Antigonus, but after three days it was rescued and reburied in Termessos.
A thorough exploration of rugged Termessos (daily 7.30am–7.30pm; 4YTL entry to the forest park, another 4YTL to the site itself) can be quite strenuous. Sturdy footwear and a supply of water are advisable, and you should time summer visits to avoid the midday sun. After checking the site map at the car park you'll need to climb a good twenty minutes before you reach the first remains of any interest, although on the way you'll pass a number of well-labelled, though mainly inaccessible, ruins, including the aqueduct and cistern high on the cliff-face to the left of the path.
Practicalities
Antalya, 30km southeast, is the most obvious base for visiting Termessos. To get there by car, take the Burdur road out of Antalya, turning left after 11km towards Korkuteli. The left turning to Termessos is marked off the Korkuteli road after about 14km, from where a track leads 9km up through the forested national park to the site. Using public transport, you need to take a bus (hourly) headed for Korkuteli as far as the beginning of the forest track, from where you can take one of the taxis (around 16YTL including waiting time and return to main road) that tout for business here.