Turkey Guide
The central and southern Aegean
Altınkum
The best local beaches are those within the coves of Altınkum, a series of sun-baked coves 9km southwest of Çeşme, beyond the rather forgettable seaside township of Çiftlik.
Altınkum is easily reached by dolmuş, and between June and September the service continues a kilometre or so from the bus stand at the first cove to the central cove, stopping opposite the tiny jandarma outpost. This is probably the best beach between Bozcaada and the Turquoise Coast, where multi-hued water laps hundreds of metres of sand and dunes. At one time, it was a stopover on the hippy trail and the cove is still host to a rash of seasonal wooden bars that spring up from the dunes. Cennet Camping ( 
0532/394 0131; summer only), ten minutes' walk along the beach, is by far the best campsite and also rents out tents (€10). Run by the garrulous Okan, and popular with young İzmir weekenders, the site lies within an organic farm, set in gorgeous surroundings just off the beach. The attached restaurant is popular at weekends, serving assorted fish dishes (10YTL) and spicy menemen. In high season you can rent kayaks and windsurfers from the Fun Club on the beach; though it's often windy here, the water is very clear and warm. It's also permissible to camp on the beach.
In high summer you have to walk pretty far to the east to lose the crowds – possibly over the headland to the easternmost cove, equal in all respects to the central one. This is accessible along a direct, unsignposted road from Çiftlik (bear left at the north edge of town).