Turkey Guide
South Central Anatolia
Mustafapaşa
The small village of Mustafapaşa, 6km south of Ürgüp, makes for a pleasant excursion. The charm of the place lies in the concentration of attractive carved house-facades dating back a century or so, when it was known as Sinasos and home to a thriving Greek community; it is also central to a cluster of little-visited churches. Unfortunately, a paucity of public transport makes Mustafapaşa an awkward base unless you have own transport.
The church of Ayios Vasilios is located to the north of the village, beyond the HotelPacha; pick up the key from the makeshift tourist office (opening hours variable), next to the Kervansaray carpet shop, before setting out. The church has well-preserved frescoes, although the faces are damaged, and four rock-cut pillars. Another church, below Ayios Vasilios in the Üzengı Dere ravine, is the Holy Cross, partly rock-cut and partly masonry-built, with pre-Iconoclastic and tenth-century paintings including a most attractive Christ of the Second Coming.
On the other side of the village, passing through streets of houses cut by former Greek occupants into the tuff cliffs, is a monastery complex including the churches of Aya Nicolas and Aya Stefanos.
Practicalities
There are several good places to stay in Mustafapaşa. Under restoration at the time of writing, the Monastery ( 
0384/353 5005, 
monasterypension@yahoo.com; Price: €25-31) has a lovely, vine-shaded courtyard and twelve smallish rooms, with wooden floors and spotless bathrooms. Medium-priced options include the Lamia Hotel ( 0384/353 5413, 
www.lamiapension.com.tr ; Price: €32-49), with five homely rooms around a flowery courtyard, perched high above town at the end of a steep cobbled street with fine views. You'll share the garden with a dalmatian, several cats, three tortoises and an aviary full of canaries and budgies. Close by is the Ukabeyn ( 0384/353 5533, www.cappadociapension.com ; Price: €32-49), a small but atmospheric place with six well-restored rooms and delightful terraces for relaxing. A real plus is the small pool, situated on the lip of a cliff overhanging the valley below. A slightly more expensive option is the wonderfully preserved Old Greek House ( 0384/353 5306, www.oldgreekhouse.com ; Price: €32-49). More than 200 years old, it was until 1923 the residence of the Greek mayor; several of the rooms have original murals and painted ceilings, and a tiny old chapel off the shady courtyard is now a Turkish bath. The hotel also has its own highly recommended restaurant serving Turkish specialities for around 16YTL a head, eaten whilst sprawled on cushions around sofra tables.