Turkey Guide
South Central Anatolia
Göreme
The large village of Göreme – just 3km northeast of Üçhisar – is of central importance to Cappadocian tourism, partly because of its open-air museum, located a couple of kilometres away on the Ürgüp road, but mostly because it is the most famous of the few remaining Cappadocian settlements whose rock-cut houses and fairy chimneys are still inhabited. However, tourist development has irrevocably changed Göreme's character. It has become an institution on the Turkish backpacker circuit (though it receives plenty of well-heeled visitors as well) and its main street is given over almost entirely to servicing tourists – there are carpet shops, pansiyons, tour companies and restaurants everywhere, and you can now wander straight out of your cave room and connect to the Internet.
However, despite the commercialization, the place has managed to hold onto a degree of authentic charm, and a short stroll will still take you up into tuff landscapes, vineyards that the locals cultivate for the production of pekmez (grape molasses), and the occasional rock-cut church, unknown to the hordes who frequent the nearby museum.
Outdoor and adventure tourism in Cappadocia
1 Kapadokya Balloons Göreme 
0384/271 2442 
www.kapadokyaballoons.com Its highly professional European pilots ensure clients get the most out of their flight by manoeuvring the balloon between treetops and fairy chimneys. "Classic" flights (1hr 45min) usually begin around dawn, when the conditions are best, and cost €230 per person, including transfers, insurance and a champagne breakfast. A cheaper, 45-minute flight costs €140, with beer rather than champagne on touchdown. If you can afford it, the longer flight really is worth the extra. Price: €140-230
2 Göreme Balloons Göreme 0384/341 5662 www.goremeballoons.com Another reputable balloon-trip operator.
3 Medraft Nevşehir 0384/213 3948 www.medraft.com Whitewater rafting on the spectacular, foaming Zamanti Cayı in the Aladağlar mountains makes for a thrilling highlight to a Cappadocia holiday. A one-day trip takes you down 12km of exciting grade 1–4 rapids, and as bonus you get to see the Kapuzbaşı falls, which, fed by a series of snow-filled caves, gush straight out of a mountainside. The guides are mostly tough, unflappable Israelis, who cover the safety angles well. Price: €95 for one-day's rafting, including a substantial barbecue meal. Also also offer two-, three- and four-day trips (€195, €325 and €445 respectively).
4 Argeus Ürgüp 0384/341 4688 www.argeus.com.tr Cappadocia is tailor-made for mountain biking, with a network of dirt tracks connecting villages to each other and to their fields, hilly terrain and plunging valleys. Trips are entirely off-road, and prices depend largely on whether clients wish to camp, use simple pensions or luxury hotels. Argeus has seven of its own bikes, but riders usually bring their own. Another good bike-trip operator is Kirkit Voyage of Avanos (see below). Both companies, and many other outlets in Göreme and Ürgüp, rent out bikes for half- and full days.
5 Kirkit Voyage Avanos 0384/511 3259 www.kirkit.com With its wide-open spaces, big skies, canyons and mesas, Cappadocia is reminiscent of the American West, and horse riding is a natural way to explore. Kirkit has a well-regarded stable in Avanos, with 45 well-groomed horses. Price: An all-day tour costs €40, while a nine-day, all-inclusive camping expedition is €600