Turkey Guide
Northeastern Anatolia
Ani
Once the capital of Bagratid Armenia, Ani is today a melancholy, almost vacant triangular plateau, divided from Armenia by the stunning Arpa Çayı (Ahuryan river) gorge and very nearly separated from the rest of Turkey by two deep tributaries. The site is mainly an expanse of rubble, but from it rise some of the finest examples of ecclesiastical and military architecture of its time. The Armenians were master stoneworkers, and the fortifications that defend the northern, exposed side of the plateau, and the handful of churches behind, are exquisite compositions in a blend of ruddy sandstone and darker volcanic rock. These, and the cliffs fringing the river, are the only vertical features here, dwarfed by an evocative but relentlessly horizontal landscape. It is inconceivable that you'd venture east of Erzurum or Artvin without fitting Ani into your plans.
The vast boundary walls of Ani, dating from the late tenth century and studded with countless towers, are visible from several kilometres as you approach past villages teeming with sheep, buffalo, horses, donkeys and geese. The ticket office (daily 7am–8pm; 5YTL) is at the Aslan Kapısı, so named because of a sculpted Selçuk lion on the wall just inside, and sole survivor of the four original gates.
Once beyond the inner wall you're confronted with the sight of the vast forlorn, weed-tufted plateau, dotted with only the sturdiest bits of masonry that have outlasted the ages. A system of signpostedpaths, many of them remnants of the former main streets of Ani, lead to or past all of the principal remains.
Practicalities
Ani lies 45km southeast of Kars, just beyond the village of Ocaklı. Without your own transport, the most common way of getting there is to take a taxi tour for about €40 a vehicle. Solo travellers typically band together at the tourist office; the taxis hold four passengers, and minibuses carrying up to nine customers (€12 each) are also available. The ruins are scattered, and many monuments are absorbing, so allow a good two and a half to three hours at Ani, plus two hours for going there and back – make sure your driver agrees to a five-hour stint. Midsummer is usually very hot, so you're advised to bring a hat, sun cream and water to tour the site – as well as some snack food.
Although restrictions for visiting Ani were recently lifted, and you no longer require a permit, the site still nudges up against the highly sensitive Armenian border, and whole areas remain out of bounds. The jandarma, who patrol the site continuously, will let you know which areas these are.