Turkey Guide
Lake Van and the southeast
Nemrut Dağı
Immediately north of Tatvan, the extinct volcano of Nemrut Dağı (no relation to the mountain with the statues), rises to 3050m. Six thousand years ago Nemrut is believed to have been 4450m high; as a result of a huge volcanic explosion, the whole upper section of the peak was deposited in the Van basin, thus blocking the natural outlet and creating the lake. The present-day volcanic cone contains two crater lakes, one of which is pleasantly warm.
After snowmelt in May/June, the crater lakes are accessible by car or dolmuş. The tourist office in Tatvan can organize full-day dolmuş excursions for groups at €35 per group, including waiting time. This will probably be under the auspices of Mehmet Selinci (
0542/832 4228), a local guide who speaks reasonable English and who also arranges trips to local villages, zoma (the Kurdish for summer pastures) and remote churches. If you're travelling under your own steam, either take the Bitlis road out of Tatvan and almost immediately turn right for Şentepe, or head for Ahlat and look for the signpost. Either way, it's about 15km to the crater rim.
From the rim, an asphalt road drops down and right towards the warm lake; bear left on dirt track to the cold crater lake. The crater, 7km in diameter, seems to have its own microclimate and the lush vegetation (beech, aspen and juniper) contrasts sharply with the bare landscape outside. Water birds that stop off here include gulls, stilts, herons and ducks, notably the rare, black velvet scoter; the crater is also noted for its snowmelt vegetation. The only other inhabitants are transhumant Kurds whose flocks graze the slopes during the summer months. The crescent-shaped Soğukgöl (cold lake) occupies the western half of the crater and lives up to its reputation all year round, but there are some hot springs on the east shore that are good for a swim, as well as cold, potable ones. Better still, take a dip in the smaller Sıcakgöl (warm lake,) connected to its partner by a narrow path leading east or a left branch off the asphalt road.