Turkey Guide
Lake Van and the southeast
Mount Ararat
Few mountains west of the Himalayas have as compelling a hold on Western imagination as Mount Ararat (Ağrı Dağı in Turkish). And for once this huge volcano – where Noah's Ark supposedly came to rest – manages to deliver that promise in reality. There are two peaks; the larger, 5165m one, is known as BüyükAğrı and the lesser cone, measuring 3925m, is KüçükAğrı. Traditionally, Armenian monks considered Mount Ararat holy and nobody was allowed to climb it, so it was not until 1829 that Dr Johann Jacob Parrot, a German academic, conquered the peak. Numerous other ascents have followed, but even today some villagers believe that it's not possible to climb the mountain, and Turkish officials did not allow it until the 1950s.
Despite the efforts of American astronaut James Irwin and others, no reliable trace of Noah's Ark has so far been found – not too surprisingly given the centuries-long effects of lava and glaciers on wood. Locals however insist that the oval mound of earth spotted by a Turkish airforce pilot on a routine flight over the region is the real thing, and the "Ark", complete with visitors centre, is routinely included in tours of the area. Ararat of course may simply be the wrong place to look. The passage in Genesis 8:4, which reported the Ark coming to rest on the "mountains of Ararat" is prone to misinterpretation; Ararat was the Assyrian rendition of Urartu, an ancient empire – and by extension, geographical area – extending quite far south of Lake Van as well as north. Mount Ararat is still sacred to the Armenians, who must be content to gaze at it on rare clear days from their capital, Erevan.
Practicalities
Unfortunately, the mountain lies in a sensitive military zone, adjoining both the Armenian and Iranian frontiers, and was also a focal point for PKK insurgency. The mountain was out of bounds for several years; it is now open, though on a strict permit-only basis.
Many local touts and companies will advise you that they can obtain a permit immediately; this is not true and you risk the loss of your deposit at best and, at worst, arrest, if you take their advice. Conditions of granting a permit include the provision of a recognized guide, so you need to apply at least two months in advance through a registered tourism agency offering treks. Permits are processed by the Tourism Ministry and, through them, by the local military and civil authorities and it is not possible to shortcut the process. The Mefser agency in Doğubeyazıt charges around €400 per person for the trip. The main climbing season is from June to September, so if you intend to be in the area during this time and would like to join a climbing group, then you should start to plan several months in advance. See 
www.mountainsofturkey.org , for current information.
Necessary equipment includes good winter-trekking gear (snow goggles, hat, gloves, down jacket, winter boots, gaiters, crampons and ice axe, plus four-season sleeping bag and mat); you are hardly likely to have this lot with you on a normal holiday and although it may be possible to rent some of it from your trekking firm, you definitely need your own boots. The major problem on the trek is dehydration – caused by altitude and lack of fresh water supplies, not altitude sickness; make sure your company has adequate means to supply you with several litres per day.
Currently, ascents are only permitted from the southwest side of the mountain; the other faces are sensitively close to Armenia and Iran. Treks are normally of five to six days' duration, allowing for acclimatization and two attempts at the summit, and are supported up to Camp 2 by mules. The usual starting point is Eli, a village on the southern slopes of Büyük Ağrı, a little over 10km north of Doğubeyazıt. From here you head up to Camp 1 (3200m) at the base of the mountain proper; reckon on an afternoon start to reach this camp by nightfall.
After this Camp 2, at 4200m, is a strenuous half-day's march above, so it's wisest to halt the rest of the day there and avoid the risk of altitude sickness. From Camp 2, a dawn start is needed to reach the summit before cloud cover becomes too thick. At around 4900m the stones give way to permanent snowpack and then glacier, where crampons are necessary. Winds can be strong here and your company should have means of roping you together. In the past, most climbers have reached the main summit four hours or so after leaving Camp 2, and the views on a clear day are stupendous, compensating for the hard slog of the ascent.