• Turkey Guide

  • Introduction to Turkey
  • 17 things not to miss
  • Red tape and visas
  • Opening hours and public holidays
  • Getting around

• Explore Turkey

  • İstanbul
  • Around the Sea of Marmara
  • The North Aegean
  • The central and southern Aegean
  • The Turquoise Coast
  • The Mediterranean coast and the Hatay
  • South Central Anatolia
  • North Central Anatolia
  • The Black Sea coast
  • Northeastern Anatolia
  • The Euphrates and Tigris basin
  • Lake Van and the southeast

• Cities

  • Ankara
    
  • Antalya
    
  • Edirne
    
  • Erzurum
    
  • İstanbul
    

Turkey Guide

İstanbul

Fasil and bağlama venues

1 Galata İstiklâl Cad, Orhan Apaydın Sok 11, Tünel, Beyoğlu 0212/293 1139 Opening time: Closed SunOld-style meyhane with a set menu of a succession of quality mezes, including rakı or wine, for around 24YTL. Tables surround the fasil band; bookings essential.

2 Kallavi Taverna Kurabiye Sok 16, Beyoğlu Opening time: Closed SunSmall, traditional restaurant, recently moved to this location. Fixed menu of 40YTL includes 10 starters, 4 entrees, a main and fruit, plus unlimited local drinks. Live fasil music most nights. It's very popular with the locals; there's another branch at Şefik Bey Sok, Kadıköy.

3 Sal Bar İstiklâl Cad, Büyükparmakapı Sok 18, Beyoğlu A relaxed atmosphere in a low-ceilinged room with coffee tables and couches. The bağlama band starts early, from 5pm, often inspiring halays, Turkish line-dancing. There are a number of other similar venues on Hasnun Galip Sok, around the corner.

4 Süheyla Kalyoncu Kulluk Cad 45, Beyoğlu Opening time: Closed SunFriendly late-night lokanta behind the fish market, serving mezes accompanied by live band.

5 Yakup 2 Asmalı Mescit Sok 35, Tünel, Beyoğlu 0212/249 2925 Opening time: Booking required on a Friday eveningCasual and noisy, one of the last of the old brigade of meyhanes. It has a faded charm and smoke-stained decor and is still frequented by artists, journalists and intellectuals. The mezes (3.5YTL) are particularly recommended, and reasonably priced fish and kebabs are also served, with rakı by the bottle.