Switzerland Guide
Ostschweiz and Liechtenstein
The Rhine falls
The Rhine falls are Europe's largest waterfalls. They are truly magnificent, not so much for their height (a mere 23m) as for their impressive breadth (150m) and the sheer drama of the place, with the spray rising in a cloud of rainbows above the forested banks. The turreted castle Schloss Laufen on a cliff directly above the falls to the south completes the spectacle.
The 4km riverside walk from Schaffhausen to the suburban town of Neuhausen, where the falls are located, takes about 45 minutes; or you could take city bus #1 or #6 to Neuhausen Zentrum, from where the well-signposted falls are five minutes' walk away. Schloss Laufen has a train station (April– Oct only), served by hourly trains between Schaffhausen and Winterthur, but Neuhausen's own station is awkwardly far away.
Once you're within sight of the falls, you're inevitably brought down to earth by the hordes of tourists crowding both banks in search of the best camera angle, and by the circus of souvenir stalls and dismal restaurants all around. The worst of it is on the north (right) bank; crossing by the arched footbridge over to the south (left) bank – which can still get crowded – at least means you can experience the power of the falls at close quarters. Damp steps (Fr.1) lead down from the souvenir shop at Schloss Laufen (www.schlosslaufen.ch) past the Bellvedere and Fischetz lookout points to the Känzeli platform at the very edge, from where the roaring waters tumble inches from your nose.
Website: www.rhinefalls.com