Switzerland Guide
Ostschweiz and Liechtenstein
The Klausen Pass
The road west over the Klausen Pass (1948m) towards Lake Luzern is a simply stunning drive through breathtaking scenery, but is little used: the road is only open in summer (June– Oct) and is mostly very narrow – just about two car-widths between the cliff and the ravine. Tortuous hairpin bends mean that you should reckon on at least an hour and a half to cover the 47km to Altdorf.
After some steep climbing out of Linthal, you emerge into the lovely, high, enclosed valley of Urnerboden, dotted with a few farms and dozens of wandering cows; to the left is the Clariden (3268m), to the right the cliffs of the Ortstock (2717m). The road meanders its way past a couple of inns, including the sturdy Urnerboden ( 
055 643 14 16; 
www.urnerboden.ch ; Price: Fr.100-150), which is open year-round – in winter, there's some fine cross-country skiing up here. Faced by a sheer cliff at the head of the valley, the road somehow jinks its way up and around to the pass itself, where there's a refreshment kiosk; a kilometre down the other side – just before the truly awesome scenery kicks in – is the century-old Hotel Klausenpasshöhe ( 041 879 11 64, www.klausenpasshoehe.ch ; Price: Under Fr.100), with century-old rooms to match. The route from here all the way down to Altdorf is a battle: you'll constantly be having to drag your eyes away from the spectacular views to concentrate on the road.
Postbuses run both ways on the "Historic Route Express" between Linthal and Altdorf in summer (June– Sept; reserve on 041 870 21 36, www.postbus.ch ), and from Linthal up to Urnerboden all year round.