Switzerland Guide
Luzern
The Hofkirche
The grand Hofkirche sits on the site of the first monastery of Luzern. The Romanesque church which replaced the monastery in the late twelfth century was burned to the ground on Easter Sunday 1633. Only its twin towers escaped, and they survive today either side of a bizarrely incongruous Renaissance gable. The impressive main doors are carved with the two patron saints of Luzern: on the left is St Leger, a French bishop who was blinded with a drill, and on the right is St Maurice, a martyred Roman soldier-saint.
The interior design and furniture are almost wholly original Renaissance from the 1630s and 1640s, a unity rarely found in Swiss or European churches, most of which underwent Baroque renovation and embellishment. On the right, elaborate pews divided into individual seats were reserved for city councillors; plainer pews on the left were for the rank and file. Beyond the exceptionally fine choir screen – one of the earliest examples of strong three-dimensional perspective used to draw the congregation's attention forward – is the high altar in black marble, flanked by statues of the two patron saints. Above the Italianate depiction of the Agony at Gethsemane is a half-length figure of God. The carved choir stalls, as well as the beautiful pulpit, are the work of Niklaus Geissler. Against the north wall is the lavish Death of the Virgin altar, showing Mary on a bed surrounded by disciples: dating from around 1500, this was the only relic to survive the 1633 fire. The mighty organ features 2826 pipes, along with a machine to mimic the sound of rain and a special register for thunder and hail.
The church is set amidst a lovely Italianate cloister, lined with the graves of Luzerner patrician families (who continue to be buried here to this day).
Opening time: Sat– Thurs 10am– noon & 2–5pm