Switzerland Guide
Lausanne and Lake Geneva
Eating
1 Bleu Lézard 10 Rue Enning www.bleu-lezard.ch Fashionable and lively café-bar on a busy corner, with a windowful of gnomes and a comfy colourful interior. The mood mutates into restaurant territory in the evenings, when food (including veggie options) is pricey – but you don't have to eat and the atmosphere is free. There's also a hip and exciting cellar venue, staging DJ nights, live music, jam sessions, dance nights and more.
2 
La Bossette 4 Place du Nord, east of Tunnel Comfortable and uniquely friendly local café on a patch of green beneath the château, serving a range of speciality beers along with excellent food.
3 Buffet de la Gare In the train station Wonderfully atmospheric station buffet, with high ceilings, wood-panelled walls, white-aproned waiters and more than a hint of the age of steam. If your eye's on the minute hand, ask for the assiette express.
4 Café Bel-Air Place Bel-Air The place to be seen, with the gentle tinkle of teaspoons accompanying the most discreet of gossip behind plate-glass windows.
5 Café de l'Évêché 4 Rue Curtat Atmospheric little haunt of talkative students and local old-timers just below the cathedral – perfect for morning coffee, authentic fondue or beer and dominoes.
6 Café de l'Hôtel de Ville 10 Place de la Palud Wonderful little intimate wood-floor café, with excellent Vaudois specialities – including hot and cold goats' cheeses with salad – quality service and especially fancy desserts. The cellar features small-scale shows of chansons, jazz and comedians.
7 Café Romand Place St-François Unmissable and much-loved city-centre retreat, a bustling, heartwarming place with parquet floor and cosy alcoves for beer, coffee or heavy Swiss fare. Opening time: Mon-Sat
8 Lecaféthéâtre 10 Rue de Genève Appealing café-bar in the Flon, with a cellar atmosphere, fantasy art on the walls and nightly live sessions of piano, guitar or French chansons for entertainment. Food is excellent, home-cooked style, and not expensive. Opening time: Tues-Sat
9 MGM 14 Rue du Lac Café-bar in Ouchy, the best of the bunch, with tunes and rather tacky decor which aim for Miami Beach and miss.
10 Du Raisin 19 Place de la Palud Prime people-watching terrace café in the Old Town.
11 Sidewalk 7 Place du Tunnel Popular local joint in a little-visited area.
12 L'Age d'Or 3 Pont Bessières 
021 323 73 14 The city's top vegetarian restaurant, with a spectacular terrace tucked beneath the bridge. Menus range from Fr.30 to Fr.100 or more, with mains on their own hovering around Fr.22. Exquisite fresh fish is a highlight. Opening time: Mon-Sat, except Mon eve
13 Café du Grütli 4 Rue de la Mercerie Venerable old tile-and-dark-wood brasserie in the heart of the Old Town, with very affordable menus (Fr.16 or so), or idiosyncratic options like a dozen snails. Head past the pavement tables and make for the hum of conversation within. Opening time: Mon-Sat
14 Au Couscous 2 Rue Enning 021 321 38 40 Long-standing Arabic restaurant in a lively part of town, lacking some atmosphere but making up for it with excellent couscous and tajine (Fr.22+) and mezze (Fr.25), with veggie and macrobiotic dishes too. Menus from Fr.17. Opening time: Daily except Sat & Sun lunchtimes
15 Laxmi 5 Escaliers du Marché 
www.laxmi.ch Excellent authentic Indian/veggie food, well prepared and cooked. Budget all-you-can-eat buffet lunches are Fr.15, or Fr.11 for veggies, or Fr.10 for cold dishes; evening menus cost no more. Students get a ten percent discount. Opening time: Mon-Sat, except Mon lunch
16 Ma Jong 3 Escaliers du Grand-Pont Excellent-value freshly wok-fried meals, piled high for Fr.15. Sushi too. Opening time: Mon-Sat
17 Manora 17 Place St-François Self-service place with a wide range of excellent cheap food. Opening time: Daily 9am–10.30pm
18 La Grappe d'Or 3 Cheneau-de-Bourg 021 323 07 60 www.lagrappedor.grandestables.ch Top gourmet temple for classic and modern French cuisine, benefiting from attentive service and a warm ambience. Expect little change from Fr.200. Opening time: Mon-Sat, except Sat lunch
19 Hôtel de Ville 1 Rue d'Yverdon, Crissier 021 634 05 05 Formerly the domain of the legendary Frédy Girardet, said to be the greatest chef in the world in his day, and now taken over by Philippe Rochat, an underling for some seventeen years. Many consider this Switzerland's best restaurant – Michelin give it three stars. The style is classic, the presentation and service are impeccable. Reserve two months ahead for dinner, two weeks ahead for lunch. Located 7km west of the city. Opening time: Tues-Sat, closed early Aug