Switzerland Guide
Lausanne and Lake Geneva
Gruyères
A perfectly preserved old castle-village, isolated on its crag but within easy reach of Lake Geneva, Gruyères is one of Switzerland's most photogenic sights and attracts hordes of day-trippers throughout the summer season, come to stroll on the village's only street and explore the impressive château.
At the foot of Gruyères village in Pringy is the Maison du Gruyère, a working dairy (daily 9am–7pm; Oct– May closes 6pm; Fr.5; www.lamaisondugruyere.ch ) where you can watch the cheesemaking process close up (production runs 9–11am & 12.30–2.30pm). There's also a restaurant and shop, both concentrating on local produce.
Up on the hill is the Château de Gruyères (daily: April– Oct 9am–6pm; Nov– March 10am–4.30pm; Fr.6.50; joint ticket with Giger Museum Fr.14; www.chateau-gruyeres.ch ). To approach, you must walk the length of Gruyères's dipping, picturesque main street with its central fountain and quaint old houses on either side bedecked with hanging signs. A huge gate affords entry to the castle grounds. Highlights include Flemish tapestries decorating the count's bedchamber, Corot's room with landscapes painted by him, and other rooms with grand fireplaces, heraldic stained glass, often featuring the dynastic symbol of a crane, and booty from the Battle of Murten where Louis II of Gruyère fought. The wood-panelled Knights' Hall is impressive, as is the small formal garden at the very back, on the tip of the hill.
As a counterpoint to the grandeur of the castle is the H.R. Giger Museum (April– Oct daily 10am–6pm; Nov– March Tues– Fri 11am–5pm, Sat & Sun 10am–6pm; Fr.11; joint ticket with château Fr.14; www.hrgiger.com ). Giger is a Swiss graphic artist, most famous for designing the special effects for the movie Alien – for which he won an Oscar – as well as Poltergeist II, Alien 3 and others. He has turned one of Gruyères's old houses into a dark and unpleasant showcase for his unique brand of grotesque art – sexualized surrealist visions of machine-like humanoids, nightmarish cityscapes and fantasy porn. The latest innovation is an Alien-style bar alongside.