Switzerland Guide
Graubünden
Val Müstair
The idyllic Val Müstair (Münstertal in German) is a lush, peaceful valley pointing the way south into Italy. This finger of Switzerland, cut off by the mountains from the rest of Graubünden and entirely surrounded by Italy, is determinedly Romansh in language and culture. Half-a-dozen hamlets dot the green slopes on the 8km descent to Santa Maria, the main village of the valley, with a Gothic church just off its narrow main street. However, the chief attraction is MÜSTAIR (pronounced moosh-tire), 4km further, where virtually the last buildings before the Italian frontier are a Carolingian monastery and church, the Claustra Son Jon, or Klosterkirche St Johann (daily 8am–7pm; 
www.muestair.ch ). This functioning Benedictine convent was reputedly founded by Charlemagne himself around 800 AD, and has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the array of brilliantly coloured Romanesque frescoes adorning the interior of its monastery church. The style and detail of the frescoes, which depict stories such as the stoning of St Stephen and the Dance of Salome, are breathtaking, and the atmosphere of the church, its adjacent cemetery and cobbled courtyard make the journey well worthwhile. A small museum off the courtyard has chunks of Carolingian carving and Baroque statues and icons (May– Oct Mon– Sat 9am– noon & 1.30–5pm, Sun 1.30–5pm; Nov– April Mon– Sat 10am– noon & 1.30–4.30pm, Sun 1.30–4.30pm; Fr.12, including guided tour).
In Santa Maria is a characterful HI hostel, Chasa Plaz ( 
081 858 56 61, www.youthhostel.ch ; Price: Up to Fr.100; dorms Fr.28.50; closed April, May & Nov), while in Müstair there's the good-value Landgasthof Münsterhof ( 081 858 55 41, www.muensterhof.ch ; Price: Fr.100–200), its old rooms filled with antiques.