Switzerland Guide
Graubünden
The Lower Engadine
Remote from Chur, let alone from the rest of the country, this attractive valley nurtures a quite distinct Romansh culture that has flourished in isolation for centuries. The succession of hamlets which cling to the banks of the foaming River Inn (En in Romansh), tumbling its way towards Innsbruck, the Danube and eventually the Black Sea, show their Latin origins as much as does the language of their inhabitants: thick-walled houses stuccoed in cream abound, complete with small, deep-set windows and scarlet geraniums sprouting from every windowbox, reminiscent of Mediterranean village architecture found much further south. Everywhere you'll see the characteristic sgraffiti decoration: ornate, curlicued designs, pictures and even mottoes or dedications etched into the white stuccoed facade of a house to reveal a darker, coloured layer beneath. The beautifully decorated cottages and quaint cobbled squares, set against a tremendous backdrop of dark pine forests and looming mountains, combine to give the valley a uniquely fairy-tale air.
Scuol is the main town of the valley, prefaced by a succession of charming cliffside villages such as Guarda and Ftan. Zernez serves as the gateway for exploration of the Parc Naziunal Svizzer, the sole national park, a vast chunk of highland wilderness. Beyond the park in tiny Müstair village is one of Switzerland's greatest cultural treasures, a Carolingian church sporting perfectly preserved medieval frescoes.
Transport isn't easy. Trains from Landquart and Klosters run through the Vereina tunnel to the terminus at Scuol, while others from Pontresina or St Moritz (changing at Samedan) serve Zernez. To reach the Austrian border or Müstair, you're reliant on postbuses – but timetables can leave you waiting a couple of hours between buses: unless you're on an extended walking tour of the valley, driving is the transport of choice, allowing you to enjoy the sunset in Müstair and still make it to St Moritz by bedtime.
The valley has plenty of places to stay. In Ftan are the charming Engiadina ( 
081 864 04 34, 
www.engiadina-ftan.ch ; Price: Fr.150–250) and the superb, modern-styled Haus Paradies ( 081 861 08 08, www.paradieshotel.ch ; Price: Fr.250–400). Both have outstanding restaurants, the latter with two Michelin stars. More modest, and remarkably good value, is the Piz Buin, at the edge of Guarda village ( 081 861 30 00, www.pizbuin.ch ; Price: Fr.150-200), a member of the "Silence" group. Cross the river from Ardez on a covered wooden bridge to Sent, location of the ultimate in tranquil campsites, Sur En ( 081 866 35 44), open year-round.
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