Switzerland Guide
Graubünden
Chur
Sitting in a deep valley carved by the Rhine, Chur (pronounced koor), the lively cantonal capital, is much overlooked: it has a characterful Old Town, full of medieval cobbled alleys, secret courtyards and solid, foursquare town houses, that is dominated by a huge cathedral symbolizing the rule of the bishop-princes of years gone by. Aside from offering "the best shopping between Zürich and Milan" (debatable), Chur serves as the linchpin of transport routes, with buses and trains sneaking their way through the high, narrow valleys of Central Graubünden to Davos and St Moritz, and west through Surselva to the high Alps around Andermatt.
Getting around
Graubünden's Rhätische Bahn (RhB) has one of the most scenic train networks in the world. Superbly engineered, with tracks spanning deep valleys on soaring viaducts and crossing several mountain passes, it can get you to sights and views far off any roads. Many of the most dramatic routes are attractions in their own right although bear in mind that, despite the hype, they're all served by regular, scheduled trains at standard fares; the only extra costs are seat reservations (always advisable), surcharges to sit in panoramic coaches, upgrades to first class and/or reservations for the dining car. Otherwise, all RhB trains are free to Swiss Pass holders.
The RhB regional pass is good value. The summer versions (May– Oct) cost Fr.120/150 for 7/14 days, with 2/4 days of free travel on RhB trains and postbuses, and the remaining days at half-price (mountain transport is half-price throughout). The winter version (Nov– April) costs Fr.90 for seven days: train travel is free for two days and half-price for the remainder, buses are half-price throughout, and you get one mountain trip for free (up and down).
Website: www.rhb.ch
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