Sweden Guide
Stockholm
Cafés and restaurants
1 Bistro Ruby/Grill Ruby Österlånggatan 14 www.bistroruby.com A French bistro, tastefully done out in Parisian style, but pricey. Main dishes go for 200–300kr, though there's a daily 150kr dinner special (5–7pm).
2 Grill Ruby Österlånggatan www.bistroruby.com Serves up reasonably priced American-style grills and weekend brunches.
3 Den Gyldene Freden Österlånggatan 51 www.gyldenefreden.se Stockholm's oldest restaurant, The Golden Peace was opened in 1772, and its vaulted cellars edged with elegant wall paintings remain marvellously atmospheric. Expect to pay around 350kr for two courses of Swedish fare, without drinks.
4 Hermitage Stora Nygatan 11 Vegetarian restaurant well worth checking out for its hearty, moderately priced food – look out for the spicy Middle Eastern dishes in particular. Opening time: Closes at 8pm (Sun 7pm)
5 Mårten Trotzig Västerlånggatan 79 www.martentrotzig.se Known throughout Sweden for excellent and stylish food served in a beautiful setting – attracts luvvies and business types from across Stockholm, though it's expense-account stuff.
6 
Mistral Lilla Nygatan 21 
08/10 12 24 Excellent, award-winning crossover cuisine served in a cosy atmosphere. Splash out on a set menu for the best taster of the chef's skills (700–900kr).
7 Berns Berzelii Park, Nybroplan One of the more chic brasseries in town (mains around 250kr), with interior design by Britain's Sir Terence Conran, and with a menu of Swedish and international dishes.
8 East Stureplan 13 www.east.se One of the city's finest restaurants. Trendy to a T, and serving some excellent food – lots of fish and Asian-style dishes. Dinner 150–190kr.
9 Grill Drottninggatan 89 08/31 45 30 www.grill.se Pricey, trendy Swedish cuisine in an eclectic set of rooms and lounge spaces. The 97kr all-you-can-eat lunch is an excellent way to sample some of their culinary talent.
10 Grodan Grev Turegatan 16 www.grodan.se "The Frog" serves up great French cuisine (mains around 130kr) and transforms into a popular club with dancing later on in the night. The terrace is also good for people-watching in the summer.
11 Halv trappa plus gård Lästmakargatan 3 Very popular eatery, with moderately priced modern European dishes, particularly fish, served outside in summer. Bursting with fashion victims.
12 Konditori Kungstornet Kungsgatan 28 Popular 1950s-style coffee house with excellent cakes and sandwiches from 40kr.
13 Restaurangen Oxtorgsgatan 14 www.restaurangentm.com Run by one of Stockholm's top chefs, this is the place for Swedish home cooking with an added international flavour at moderate prices. No starters or main courses – you simply put together a meal from three or five excellent smaller dishes.
14 Robert's Coffee Kungsgatan 44 Just inside the door of the Kungshallen food hall, and a popular place to meet for a good cup of coffee, muffins or a light lunch.
15 Sawadee Olofsgatan 6 www.sawadee.se Next to Hötorget T-bana. Attractive Thai restaurant with a wonderful 150kr special dinner and reasonably priced drinks.
16 Sthlm: Kaffe med Mjölk Drottninggatan 73c Relaxed café serving sandwiches, cakes, great breakfasts, of both the fried and healthy varieties, and pasta dishes (65–75kr).
17 Blå Dörren Södermalmstorg 6 www.bla-dorren.se Beer hall and restaurant serving excellent, but expensive, Swedish food.
18 Bonden Bondegatan 1C Small and cosy restaurant with rough brick walls and moderate prices; the Bondenbar next door gets lively with DJs and bands from Wednesday to Saturday.
19 Bröderna Olssons Folkungagatan 84
www.garlicandshots.com A scruffy, fun restaurant with a black-and-white tiled butcher-shop look, specializing in garlic-laced dishes, accompanied by shots of vodka.
20 Creperie Fyra Knop Svartensgatan 4 Excellent crêpes at affordable prices (around 80kr).
21 Folkhemmet Renstiernas gata 30 Very popular place serving Swedish home cooking and international dishes (mains around 120kr) to young trendies. Packed at weekends.
22 Gondolen Stadsgården 6 www.eriks.se Breathtaking views over Stockholm from this high-level place serving up local dishes right on the waterfront at the top of the Katarina lift. Choose the smaller of the two restaurants here and prices fall dramatically.
23 Hosteria Tre Santi Blekingegatan 32 www.tresanti.se One of Södermalm's better Italian restaurants and excellent value for money – always busy.
24 Indigo Götgatan 19 The ideal place to stop off for an afternoon cappuccino. Good pastries, too – the carrot cake is a house speciality. After serving a moderately priced evening menu, the place turns into a lively bar.
25 Indira Bondegatan 3B The area's biggest Indian restaurant, with a good, inexpensive tandoori-based menu. Takeaway food, too.
26 Koh Phangan Skånegatan 57 www.kohphangan.se Swedes love Thailand, and this is a small chunk of paradise 11,070km from Bangkok – a crammed, heaving bar-restaurant with great food (mains around 150kr), lots of bamboo and imitation tropical storms.
27 Kvarnen Tjärhovsgatan 4 www.kvarnen.com A wonderful beer hall serving Swedish food: lunch for around 50kr, meatballs for 115kr and pytt i panna mash for 98kr. Opening time: Open till 3am, kitchen until 11pm
28 Lasse i Parken Högalidsgatan 56 www.lasseiparken.se Daytime café housed in an eighteenth-century house with a pleasant garden. Very popular in summer; also handy for the beaches at Långholmen. Opening time: June– Aug only
29 Mellis Skånegatan 83–85 Popular place on this busy restaurant street. Greek, French and Swedish dishes at around 120kr, and good coffee and cakes, too.
30 Pelikan Blekingegatan 40 www.pelikan.se Atmospheric, working-class beer hall with excellent traditional food, such as pytt i panna for 98kr.
31 Sjögräs Timmermansgatan 24 www.sjogras.com A modern approach to Swedish cooking, influenced by world cuisines, and offering mains at 180–220kr. Always packed. Appealing bar of the sam name too, specializing in rum.
32 Snaps/Rangus Tangus Medborgarplatsen Good, old-fashioned and expensive Swedish food served in a 300-year-old building. Very popular.
33 Soldaten Svejk Östgötagatan 35 www.svejk.se Lively Czech-run joint that draws in a lot of students, with a simple menu at around the 100–125kr mark. Large selection of Czech beers – a Staropramen goes for 45kr.
34 String Nytorgsgatan 38 www.cafestring.com Trendy daytime café, good for people-watching from the large windows, which churns out moderately priced cakes and snacks.
35 Tre Indier Åsögatan 92 treindier.gastrogate.com Lively, moderately priced Indian restaurant, slightly tucked away in a tiny street off Åsögatan, but well worth hunting out.
36 Aubergine Linnégatan 38 www.aubergine.se Upmarket and expensive place, decked out with lots of wood and glass and located on one of Östermalm's busiest streets. Mostly serves Mediterranean cuisine; the separate bar menu brings prices within reach.
37 Elverket Linnégatan 69 www.brasserieelverket.se Moderately priced Swedish "crossover" food (international dishes given a Swedish flavour with use of local produce and flavours), served up in a restaurant attached to a theatre. Spacious lounge for drinks before dinner or relaxation afterwards.
38 Godot Grev Turegatan 36, corner Linnégatan www.godot.se Calm, stylish brasserie with imaginative French dishes such as mussels with cauliflower sauce or steaks, for 165–275kr. Excellent wine list, too.
39 Il Conte Grevgatan 9 One of the best Italian restaurants in town, doling out excellent pasta dishes for around 120kr.
40 Örtagården Nybrogatan 31 Expensive, top-notch vegetarian restaurant, with food dished up under a huge chandelier in c.1900 surroundings. Dozens of different salads, warm dishes and soups.
41 El Cubanito Scheelegatan 3 Delicious Spanish food (mains around 180kr) that deservedly attracts people from across Stockholm.
42 La Famiglia Alströmergatan 45 One of Kungsholmen's better Italian places (even Frank Sinatra once ate here), and a good one for that first date. Mains 100–180kr.
43 Roppongi Hantverkargatan 76 www.roppongi.se Great sushi and other Japanese delights, at a price: main dinner dishes are around 235kr, while lunch goes for 130kr.
44 Salt Hantverkaregatan 34 www.saltbarmatsal.se Inexpensive, stodgy traditional Swedish fare, including salted, oven-baked moose. The name is no joke – drink lots of water if you're eating the slabs of pork they serve up.
45 Spisa hos Göken Pontonjärgatan 28 An excellent choice for modern Swedish food served up in a small neighbourhood restaurant. Mains around 100kr.
46 Atlas Birger Jarlsgatan 41 Trendy café-restaurant with fresh vegetarian dishes from 60kr and meat and fish mains from around the world for about 110kr. The weekend brunches are excellent, and there's outside seating on comfy sofas.
47 Bon Lloc Regeringsgatan 111 08/660 60 60 Expensive Euro-Latino dishes with a hint of Swedish home cooking, prepared by award-winning chefs. Mains from 395kr.
48 Lao Wai Luntmakargatan 74 www.laowai.se A Szechuan and Thai restaurant serving 40kr servings of dim sum. Main dishes cost around 150kr; for cheaper fare, head next door for the snackbar/takeaway department.
49 Organic Green Rehnsgatan 11 A new-agey organic café serving vegan fare such as home-made bread, soups, a vegetable buffet and freshly pressed juices, for 55–78kr. Opening time: Closed Sun
50 Saturnus Erikbergsgatan 6 Café food during the day, including good, reasonably priced pasta, huge cakes and massive sandwiches, with more substantial dishes on offer in the evening.
51 Chokladkoppen Stortorget 18 Excellent, gay-friendly café with a sunny terrace overlooking the bustling square. Good for lunch, coffee, hot chocolate and Indian chai.
52 Mandus Österlånggatan 7 08/20 60 55 The best gay restaurant in Stockholm, serving up tiger prawns, beef and chicken wok dishes and delicious home-made burgers. Deservedly known for its vibrant bar staff, too.
53 Roxy Nytorget 6, Södermalm www.roxysofo.se A cosy and warm Mediterranean restaurant that turns into a bar after dinner. Gay-friendly.