Sweden Guide
Central and northern Sweden
Mora
If you've only got time to see part of the area around Lake Siljan, then MORA is the place to head for. The largest of the lakeside settlements, Mora's main draw is the work of Sweden's best-known artist, Anders Zorn (1860–1920), who moved here in 1896 and whose paintings are exhibited in the excellent Zorn Museum at Vasagatan 36 (mid-May to mid-Sept Mon– Sat 9am–5pm, Sun 11am–5pm; mid-Sept to mid-May Mon– Sat noon–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; 50kr, 
www.zorn.se ) – look out for the self-portrait and the especially pleasing Midnatt (Midnight) from 1891, which depicts a woman rowing on Lake Siljan, her hands blue from the cold night air.
Once you've covered the town's sights, you might want to take a cruise (mid-June to mid-Aug only) on the lake aboard the lovely old steamship M/S Gustaf Wasa (timetables vary; info on 
010/252 32 92, 070/542 10 25 or www.wasanet.nu ); it costs 120kr for a round-trip to Leksand or 80kr for a two-hour lunch cruise.
Among the hotels, the biggest and best is the First Hotel Mora at Strandgatan 12 ( 0250/59 26 50, www.firsthotelmora.com ; Price: Kr1200-1500), opposite Mora Strand train station, with a choice of modern and traditional rooms. HotelSt Mikael, Fridhemsgatan 15 ( 0250/150 70, www.trehotell.nu ; Price: Kr1200-1500), is small, with tasteful rooms, while Hotell Kung Gösta, Kristinebergsgatan 1, is handy for Mora train station ( 0250/150 70, www.trehotell.nu ; Price: Kr900-1200).
As for eating and drinking, all the hotels serve up a decent dagens rätt for around 60kr – there's little to choose between them. 
Wasastugan, a huge log building overlooking the lake at Tingnäsvägen 6, is particularly lively in the evenings, with Tex-Mex dishes from 90kr, and regular club nights. Alternatively, Pizzeria Prima at Fridhemsplan 2d or Pizzeria Torino at Älvgatan 73 serve up virtually any pizza you can think of, all at reasonable prices. In summer, coffee and cakes can be enjoyed al fresco at Helmers Konditori at Kyrkogatan 10.