Sweden Guide
Central and northern Sweden
Kiruna
KIRUNA was at the hub of the battle for the control of the iron ore supply during World War II. A brooding reminder of Kiruna's prosperity, the LKAB iron-ore mine, which churns out 13 million tonnes of ore a year, dominates the town: despite the new central buildings and open parks, Kiruna retains a gritty industrial air. Guided tours of the mines are arranged by the tourist office (July to mid-Aug 5 daily; June & late Aug 2 daily; 220kr): it's an interesting, but far less authentic experience than the iron-ore mine tours in Gällivare (see Arrival).
Most flights to Kiruna's airport, 10km east of town, are met by the bus to the centre of town. Arriving by train, it's a brisk five-minute walk from the station uphill to the tourist office on the central square.
In winter, you can sleep in an ice igloo (Dec– Apr; Price: Kr700-900), with a window in the roof for watching the northern lights; the price includes a flask of warm lingonberry juice, breakfast and a sauna in the morning. The reception rents out skis for the nearby cross-country trails and can organize dog-sledding.
Of Kiruna's central hotels, the large Scandic Ferrum Kiruna next to the tourist office at Lars Janssonsgatan 15 ( 
0980/39 86 00, 
www.scandic-hotels.com ; Price: Kr700-900/Price: Kr1200-1500) has superb views of the Midnight Sun from its excellent sixth-floor sauna area, while the Hotell Vinterpalatset at Järnvägsgatan 18 ( 0980/677 70, www.vinterpalatset.se ; Price: Kr700-900/Price: Kr1200-1500), is a smaller upmarket option. Round the corner at Konduktörsgatan 7, the cosy Hotell Kebne ( 0980/681 80, www.hotellkebne.com ; Price: Kr500-700/Price: Kr900-1200) is a handy option for the train station.
Kiruna is hardly a centre of haute cuisine, but there are several decent places to eat: the best is City Krogen next to the STF hostel at Bergmästaregatan 7, which serves up some excellent reindeer and salmon dishes from 130kr. Nan King at Mangigatan 26 is an inexpensive Chinese place (lunch 65kr), while Caffreys, at the corner of Föreningsgatan and Bergmästaregatan, does pizzas and pasta dishes, both around 90kr. Coffee and cakes are served up at Safari, Geologgatan 4.