Sweden Guide
Central and northern Sweden
Jukkasjärvi
The tiny village of JUKKASJÄRVI is a Mecca for many tourists travelling in Lapland in winter – albeit a disproportionately expensive one for the dubious pleasure of spending a night in subzero temperatures, The Icehotel ( 
0980/668 00, 
www.icehotel.com ) that is built here every October is the world's biggest igloo and stands proudly by the side of the frozen River Torne until it melts in May. Thousands of tons of ice and snow are used to make the igloo, after which artists decorate the interior with elaborate carvings and lighting. Inside, there are bedrooms with compacted snow beds covered with reindeer hides, a bar, an exhibition hall, a cinema and a wedding chapel. Winter temperatures are generally around -20 to -30°C, which means that inside the igloo it's a positively balmy -5°C. Guests are provided with special sleeping bags, warm coats, hats and gloves. There are two types of room here: a standard double room containing nothing more than a reindeer-hide-swathed block of snow and ice for a bed costing 2800kr, and the more stylish decorated suites featuring ice carvings for an outrageous 3800–6000kr. If you chicken out, there are also warm cabins for rent on the site (2500kr for a two-berth cabin). A hotel bus picks up customers from the airport or train station (100kr per person), but undoubtedly the best way to arrive at the Icehotel is by dog sled from the airport; for a hefty 5125kr, you and three friends can be met from your plane and pulled to your room. At the southern end of the village, there's a small wooden Sámi church from 1608, next to which is the Nutti Sámi Siida travel agency ( 0980/213 29, www.nutti.se ), which organizes Sámi-related adventures including dog- and reindeer sledding and accommodation in Sámi tepees. In summer, Jukkasjärvi is a good place for river-rafting, fishing and hiking.
The two eating options in the village are both run by the hotel; the Icehotel restaurant (July– Aug & Dec– April) right across the road serves pricey gourmet Lapland dishes (200–290kr) and good-value lunches (95kr); 800m away, the Hembygdsgården restaurant has a 65kr lunch menu and more Lappish dishes, from 150kr.