Spain Guide
Valencia and Murcia
Museo Nacional de Cerámica
Opening time: Tues– Sat 10am–2pm & 4–8pm, Sun 10am–2pm
Price: €2.40, free Sat pm & Sun
The distinctive feature of Valencian architecture is its wealth of elaborate Baroque facades – you'll see them on almost every old building in town, but none so extraordinary or rich as the Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas. Hipólito Rovira, who designed its amazing alabaster doorway, died insane in 1740, which should come as no surprise to anyone who sees it. Inside is the Museo Nacional de Cerámica, with a vast collection of ceramics from all over Spain, and particularly Valencia, itself a major ceramics centre, largely owing to the size of its morisco population.
Apart from an impressive display of azulejos, the collection contains some stunning plates with gold and copper varnishes (reflejos) and a trio of evocatively ornate eighteenth-century carriages. In the same decorative vein as the palacio is the church of San Juan de la Cruz (or San Andrés) next door, whose facade is currently being restored.