Spain Guide
Valencia and Murcia
Peñíscola
The setting of PEÑÍSCOLA is among the most stunning in Spain: a heavily fortified promontory jutting out into the Mediterranean, zealously shielding its warren of alleys and lanes with perfectly preserved medieval walls. Yet it's also one of the starkest – immediately below the old walls, the requisite line of eyesore high-rises snakes out along the seafront like a besieging army.
There was once a Phoenician settlement here, and later it saw Greek, Carthaginian, Roman and Moorish rulers. The present castle, built by the Knights Templar (daily: summer 9.30am–9.30pm; winter 10.30am–5.30pm; €3.50), is well worth a visit to admire the colossal vaulted guards' quarters, basilica and the views from its roof. The resort's slender beach has recently been beefed up with several thousand tonnes of Saharan sand; the farther north you get from the castle, the quieter it becomes. There's also a smaller cove beach, Playa Sur, 200m west of the old town.
The most atmospheric lodgings are inside the walled city: there are rooms above the Chiki Bar at Mayor 3 (964 480 284; €36-50), and they also serve an €11 menú. The more comfortable Hostal Aranda, c/General Aranda 3 (964 480 816, www.hostalaranda.com; €71-100), has clean rooms with pastel walls and tiled floors. If you'd rather be within striking distance of the beach, Simó, in the shadow of the walls at c/Porteta 5 (964 480 620, www.restaurantesimo.es; B&B €51-70), has bright rooms with sea views. The area just below the old town is thick with restaurants, many serving local dishes such as suquet de peix (fish stew), and all i pebre de polp (small octopus with garlic and pepper sauce). The rustic, long-established El Peñón, c/Santos Mártires 22 (t964 480 716; Nov– March Fri– Sun only), serves quality seafood. The lively restaurant-lounge Mandarina, Avda. Papa Luna 1, has a breezy terrace.
Buses shuttle between Peñíscola and Vinaròs every half-hour between 7.30am and 11pm, stopping at various points along Avenida Papa Luna. For points south, you'll have to change bus at Benicarló (c/San Francisco).