Spain Guide
Valencia and Murcia
Morella
MORELLA, 62km imland, is the most attractive town in the province of Castellón. A medieval fortress town, it rises from the plain around a small hill crowned by a tall, rocky spur and a virtually impregnable castle that dominates the surrounding countryside. The fortress itself is in ruins, but still impressive. It's a tiring climb, but there are tremendous views in every direction from the crumbling courtyard at the top – down over the monastery, bullring and town walls to the plains. A perfectly preserved ring of ancient walls defends its lower reaches.
You can find inexpensive accommodation at Hostal La Muralla, c/Muralla 12 (964 160 243; B&B €36-50), and at the slightly more modern and comfortable Hotel El Cid, Puerta San Mateo 3 (964 160 125, www.hotelelcidmorella.com; €51-70), and offer inspirational views of the hills. Otherwise, 
Hotel Cardenal Ram at c/Cuesta Suñer 1, a converted medieval cardinal's palace (t964 173 085, www.cardenalram.com; €71-100), is an atmospheric place to bed down, and has a good restaurant. La Fonda Moreno, c/Sant Nicolau 12 (964 160 105, www.lafondamoreno.com), has nine pleasant, bright rooms, along with an inviting restaurant. Book rooms in advance during fiestas and holidays.
Morella's main porticoed street, Els Porxos, bisected by steep steps leading down to the lower walls, is the place for food, with its bars, bakeries (head to Gorreta 2 for breakfast) and cafés – the hundred-plus-year-old Rourera is excellent for tapas. Morella is also prime truffle country – to sample the local trufa negra and other gourmet-rustic delicacies, head to the Casa Roque, Cuesta San Juan 1 ( 
964 160 336; closed Sun eve & Mon).
Buses run to Morella from Vinaròs (Mon– Fri 2 daily) and Castellón (Mon– Fri 2 daily, Sat daily).