Spain Guide
Madrid
Restaurants and tapas bars
1 Al Natural c/Zorilla 11
913 694 709 
www.alnatural.biz . Veggie and non-veggie food, including a very good mushroom and spinach pie and stuffed aubergines. Decent wines and an above-average menú at €11.20, and it's non-smoking, too – a rarity for Madrid. Opening time: Closed Sun eve
2 Artemisa c/Ventura de la Vega 4
914 295 092Long-standing popular vegetarian (you may have to wait for a table), good for veggie pizzas and paellas, superb vegetable dishes and an imaginative range of salads. No smoking. Price: €20–25 per head Opening time: Closed Sun eve.
3 
El Estragón Plaza de la Paja 10
913 658 982Cosy restaurant enjoying a fine setting on the edge of ancient Plaza de Paja, and dishing up big helpings of hearty vegetarian food and great desserts. Menú at €10 (dinner menú is €19) during the week.
4 La Isla del Tesoro c/Manuela Malasaña 3
915 931 440Tropical beach decor serves as the backdrop for some cosmopolitan vegetarian food at this great-value place on one of the most interesting streets in Malasaña. Constantly changing menú. Price: Menú around €10.
5 Vegaviana c/Pelayo 35
913 080 381A wide range of tasty vegetarian options with an international twist, in the heart of Chueca. There's a free-range chicken option for non-veggies, too. Very good value, with big portions meaning you'll struggle to break the €20 mark. Price: Closed Mon & Sun
6 Café Barbieri c/Ave María 45 relaxed place in the heart of Lavapiés, with unobtrusive music, old-style decor, newspapers and a wide selection of coffees. Opening time: Open from 3pm
7 Café Comercial Glorieta de Bilbao One of the city's most popular meeting points – a lovely traditional café, well positioned for the Chueca/Santa Bárbara area.
8 Café del Espejo Paseo de Recoletos 31 Opened in 1991 but you wouldn't guess it – mirrors, gilt and a wonderful glass pavilion, plus a leafy outside terraza.
9 Café Gijón Paseo de Recoletos 21 A famous literary café – and a centre of the intellectual/arty movida in the 1980s – decked out in Cuban mahogany and mirrors. Has a summer terraza.
10 Café de Oriente Plaza de Oriente 2 Elegant, Parisian-style affair with a popular terraza looking out towards the Palacio Royal.
11 Círculo de Bellas Artes c/Alcalá 42 Day membership to the Círculo is €1, which gives you access to exhibitions, and to a stylish bar, where you can loll on sofas and have drinks at "normal" prices. Outside, in summer, there's a comfortable terraza.
12 La Mallorquina Puerta del Sol 2 Good for breakfast or snacks – try one of their napolitanas (cream slices) in the sunny upstairs salon.
13 La Suiza Plaza de Santa Ana 2 A classic café serving delicious leche merengada (a sort of sweet, whipped-milk ice cream), chocolate con churros and a massive selection of cakes. Its year-round terraza on the plaza makes a perfect spot for people-watching.
14 El Abuelo c/Núñez de Arce 3 There's a comedor at the back of this down-to-earth bar, where you can order a selection of delicious raciones – the croquetas are especially good – and a jug of house wine. Opening time: Closed Mon
15 Las Bravas c/Alvarez Gato 3 As the name suggests, patatas bravas (spicy potatoes) are the tapa to try at this bar, which has patented its own version of the sauce; the tortilla is pretty good, too. On the outside of the bar are novelty mirrors, a hangover from the days when this was a barbers and the subject of a story by Valle Inclán. Standing room only and bright lights mean it is not to everyone's liking, though.
16 Casa del Abuelo c/Victoria 12 Tiny, highly atmospheric corner bar serving just its cloyingly sweet red house wine, beer and great cooked prawns – try them al ajilo (in garlic) or a la plancha (fried). You'll be given a voucher for a free glass of wine at the sister bar round the corner in c/Núñez de Arce.
17 Casa del Labra c/Tetuán 12 915 310 081 A great, traditional place, where the Spanish Socialist Party was founded in 1879. Order a drink at the bar and a ración of bacalao (cod fried in batter) or some of the best croquetas in town at the counter to the right of the door. There's a fairly expensive restaurant at the back with classic madrileño food on offer. Opening time: Closed Sun
18 Lhardy Carrera de San Jerónimo 8 915 213 385 www.lhardy.com Lhardy is one of Madrid's most famous and expensive restaurants. Once the haunt of royalty, it's a beautiful place but greatly overpriced (minimum €60). Downstairs, however, there's a wonderful bar/shop, where you can snack on canapés, fino (dry sherry) and consommé, without breaking the bank. Opening time: Closed Sun eve
19 Museo del Jamón Carrera de San Jerónimo 6 The largest branch of this ubiquitous Madrid chain, from whose ceilings are suspended hundreds of jamones (hams). The best – and they are not cheap – are the jabugos from the Sierra Morena, though a ham croissant is around €3.
20 La Oreja de Oro c/Victoria 9 Standing room only in this spit-and-sawdust bar just opposite La Casa del Abuelo. Try the excellent pulpo a la Gallega (sliced octopus layered over a bed of potatoes and seasoned with cayenne pepper) washed down with Ribeiro wine served in terracotta bowls. Plenty of other seafood tapas on offer, too. Opening time: Closed Aug
21 El Botín c/Cuchilleros 17 913 664 217 www.botin.es Established in 1725, the picturesque El Botín is cited in the Guinness Book of Records as Europe's oldest restaurant. Favoured by Hemingway, inevitably it's become a tourist haunt but not such a bad one, with quality Castilian roasts – especially suckling pig (cochinillo) from Segovia and roast lamb (cordero asado). Price: Menú €35
22 Casa Ciriaco c/Mayor 84 915 480 620 An attractive taberna, long reputed for traditional Castilian dishes – trout, chicken, partridge and so on, served up in generous portions. Opening time: Closed Wed & AugPrice: Menú €20
23 Casa Paco Plaza Puerta Cerrada 11 913 663 166 www.amerc.es/casapaco This classic traditional comedor, with no-nonsense service, dishes out some of the best-prepared meat dishes in town. Specializes in sirloin steak (solomillo), and another delicious cut known as cebón de buey. Price: About €35 Opening time: Closed Sun & Aug
24 La Finca de Susana c/Arlabán 4 www.lafinca-restaurant.com One of two great-value restaurants set up by a group of Catalan friends (the other is La Gloria de Montera just off Gran Vía). Tasty menú for around €9, consisting of simple dishes served with imagination. Arrive early to avoid queuing, as you can't book (opens 1pm for lunch).
25 Viuda Blanca c/Campomanes 6 915 487 529 www.laviudablanca.com A self-consciously super-cool restaurant with de rigueur minimalist decor, run by chef César Augusto, the "White Widow" serves an inventive €13.15 set lunch (€17 at weekends), which usually includes vegetarian and low-calorie options. On the other side of the bar is La Viuda Negra club/cocktail bar. Price: Closed Sun
26 Cervecería Cervantes Plaza de Jesús 7 Prawns are the speciality here – the tosta de gambas is delicious – but there's a wide range of other tapas, and the beer is good, too. An excellent place for an aperitivo. Opening time: Closed Sun eve
27 El Lacón c/Manuel Fernández y González 8 A large Galician bar-restaurant with plenty of seats upstairs. Great pulpo, caldo gallego (meat and vegetable broth) and empanadas. Opening time: Closed Aug
28 La Taberna de Dolores Plaza de Jesús 4 Splendid canapés at this popular and friendly tiled bar at the bottom of Huertas. The beer is really good, and the food specialities include Roquefort and anchovy, and smoked-salmon canapés. Get here early if you want a space at the bar.
29 La Trucha c/Manuel Fernández y González 3 914 295 833 An ever-popular tapas bar and reasonably priced restaurant sandwiched between Santa Ana and c/Echegaray. Andalucian-style pescaito frito (smoked fish) and pimientos de Padrón are specialities. Usually very crowded. Opening time: Closed Sun
30 Viña P Plaza de Santa Ana 3 Friendly staff serve a great range of tapas in a bar decked out with bullfighting mementoes and posters. Try the asparagus, stuffed mussels and the mouthwatering almejas a la marinera (clams in a garlic and white-wine sauce).
31 El Cenador del Prado c/Prado 4 914 291 561 www.elcenadordelprado.com Romantic and stylish decor serve as the backdrop to imaginative cuisine combining Spanish, Mediterranean and Far Eastern influences with some spectacular desserts. Good-value €21.50 menú served at lunch (Mon– Sat) and dinner (Mon– Thurs). There's also a vegetarian version at €19 and a menú de degustación at €41. Opening time: Closed Sun
32 Domine Cabra c/Huertas 54 914 294 365 An interesting mix of traditional and modern, with madrileña standards given the nueva cocina treatment. Smallish helpings but good value. Opening time: Closed Sat lunch, Sun eve & second half of AugPrice: €25–30
33 Las Letras c/Echegaray 26 914 291 206 Designerish touches to the decor and the food characterize this small bar-restaurant, which picks up where its predecessor Lerranz left off.Price: Menú €10.50 Opening time: Closed Sun eve (all day Sun in summer) & second half of Aug
34 Mezklum Tech c/Príncipe 16 915 218 911 www.mezklum.com A hyper-cool restaurant decked out in shades of mauve and white and serving a fine array of Mediterranean dishes, with good salads and pastas. It has two good-value lunch-time menús at €10.90 and €14.90. Price: Evening meals €25–30
35 Le Petit Bistrot Plaza Matute 5 914 296 265 www.lepetitbistrot.net A genuine French bistro in this quiet plaza just off Huertas. There's a very good €13.20 set lunch (€18.50 on Sat). Classics such as French onion soup, steak in bearnaise sauce, and profiteroles dripping in chocolate sauce. Opening time: Closed Sun eve
36 Prada a Tope c/Príncipe 11 914 295 221 Excellent-quality produce from El Bierzo in León at this branch of the restaurant chain; the pimientos asados, morcilla and tortilla are extremely tasty. Price: €20–25 for a full meal Opening time: Closed Mon
37 La Sanabresa c/Amor de Diós 12 914 290 338 A real local, with a TV in one corner, and an endless supply of customers who come for its good-quality and reasonably priced dishes. Don't miss the grilled aubergines. Price: Around €20 Opening time: Closed Sun
38 La Vaca Verónica c/Moratín 38 914 297 827 Excellent Argentinian-style meat, really good fresh pasta in imaginative sauces, quality fish dishes and tasty vegetables. Try the Filet Verónica and the carabinero con pasta. The menú is a good deal at €15, and the service is friendly. Opening time: Closed Sat lunch & Sun
39 Almendro 13 c/Almendro 13, La Latina Always packed at weekends, this fashionable wood-panelled bar serves great fino from chilled black bottles. Tuck into the house specials of huevos rotos (fried eggs on a bed of crisps) and roscas rellenas (rings of bread stuffed with various meats).
40 Los Caracoles Plaza Cascorro 18, La Latina A favourite since the 1940s, this does a good range of tapas as well as its namesake caracoles (snails). The place to come after a trek around the Rastro – although it will be heaving.
41 La Chata c/Cava Baja 24, La Latina One of the most traditional, and popular, tiled tapas bars in Madrid, with hams hanging from the ceiling, taurine and football mementoes on the walls, and a good selection of raciones, including cebolla rellena and pimientos del piquillo rellenos (stuffed onions and peppers). Opening time: Closed Sun eve
42 Corazón Loco c/Almendro 22, La Latina www.corazonloco.com A lively bar just off the Plaza de San Andrés with a good range of tapas and a cosy brick-lined dining area at the back. Two different set lunches are available (Tues– Fri) for €10 and €12.
43 Melo's c/Avemaría 44. Lavapíes It's standing room only at this very popular Galician bar serving huge zapatillas (slippers of Galician country bread filled with lacón and queso) and great pimientos de Padrón. Opening time: Usually closed Aug
44 La Musa Latina c/Costanilla San Andrés 12, La Latina www.lamusalatina.com Another style-conscious restaurant on the La Latina scene. Serves a great €11 menú and a small selection of modern tapas.
45 Taberna de Antonio Sánchez c/Mesón de Paredes 13, Lavapiés 915 397 826 Said to be the oldest taberna in Madrid, this Lavapiés bar has an appropriately dark, wooden interior complete with stuffed bulls' heads (one of which killed Antonio Sánchez, the son of the founder). Lots of finos on offer, plus jamón and queso tapas or tortilla de San Isidro (with salted cod). Opening time: Closed Sun eve
46 La Taberna de los Cien Vinos c/Nuncio 16, La Latina A small, friendly wood-panelled bar with, as the name would suggest, an excellent selection of wines and a constantly changing menú of inventive and very tasty raciones. Arrive early if you want a seat for the evening. Opening time: Closed Mon & Sun eve
47 Tapasentao c/Almendro 27, La Latina On the corner of the Plaza de San Andrés, this is just the place for original, seated tapas. Recommended are the chorizo with wafer-thin chips, the three-cheese salad and the fried mushrooms. There is a less-crowded branch nearby at c/Príncipe Anglona 1.
48 El Tempranillo Cava Baja 38, La Latina A stylish little bar serving tasty tapas and a vast range of Spanish wines by the glass – a great place to discover a new favourite. Opening time: Closed two weeks in Aug
49 El Asador Frontón Plaza Tirso de Molina 7, 1° (entrance just off the square) 913 691 617 A limited but high-quality menú with a wide range of classic Castilian dishes available – red meats, fish and local vegetables. Good home-made desserts. Price: Around €45 for the full works Opening time: Closed Aug
50 Casa Lastra c/Olivar 3, Lavapiés 913 690 837 www.casalastra.com Very popular local restaurant serving classic Asturian fare, including entrecot al cabrales (steak in a strong blue-cheese sauce), fabada and, of course, sidra (cider). Big portions, and, at around €13, the set lunch is very good value. Opening time: Closed Wed & Sun eve
51 Casa Lucio c/Cava Baja 35, La Latina 913 653 252 www.casalucio.es A Madrid institution famous for its Castilian specialities such as cocido, callos (tripe) and roasts, cooked to perfection. It is where Queen Sofía took George Bush's wife when the First Family visited a few years back. Booking is essential. If you can't stretch to a full meal, try some of the specialities in the front bar. Price: Around €50 a head Opening time: Closed Sat lunch & Aug
52 Posada de la Villa c/Cava Baja 9, La Latina 913 661 860 www.posadadelavilla.com The most attractive-looking restaurant in La Latina, spread over three floors of a seventeenth-century mansion. Cooking is typically madrileña, including superb roast lamb. Reckon on a good €50 per person for the works – though you could get away with less. Opening time: Closed Sun eve & Aug
53 La Barraca c/Reina 29 915 327 154 www.labarraca.es Step off the dingy street into this little slice of Valencia for some of the best paellas in town. Service is attentive but not overfussy, the starters are excellent, and there's a refreshing lemon sorbet for dessert. Price: Around €35 for a three-course meal with wine
54 La Bola c/Bola 5 915 476 930 www.labola.es Established in 1870, this is one of the places to go for cocido madrileño (soup followed by chickpeas and other vegetables and then a selection of meats), which is only served at lunchtime (€19). Don't plan on doing anything energetic afterwards, as it is incredibly filling. Service can be a little surly. No cards. Opening time: Closed Sun eve
55 El Buey Plaza de la Marina Española 1 915 413 041 A meat-eaters' paradise specializing in steak – which you fry up yourself on a sizzling hotplate. Very good side dishes, too, including a superb leek and seafood pie, and excellent home-made desserts. Price: Around €35 a head
56 Casa Mingo Paseo de la Florida 34 915 477 918 Noisy, crowded and fun, Casa Mingo is a reasonably priced Asturian chicken and cider house just up the road from the Príncipe Pío. Tables are like gold dust, so loiter with your bottle of sidra in hand. Price: Around €18 a head
57 La Gloria de Montera c/Caballero de Gracia 10 www.lagloriademontera.com Sister restaurant to La Finca de Susana, with the same successful formula. Excellent-value menú with imaginative, well-presented dishes – but production-line service – in a cool setting on a gloomy street just off the Gran Vía. Price: Menú around €10
58 Baco & Beto c/Pelayo 24, Chueca www.bacoybeto.com Excellent, creative tapas with great tostas and canapés. Try the courgette with melted brie and the croquetas. An excellent selection of wines, too. Opening time: Mon– Sat eve & Sat lunch
59 El Bocaito c/Libertad 4–6, Chueca www.bocaito.com Munch away on a variety of delicious canapés and tapas, washed down with a cold beer, at this busy bar; their Luisito, is the hottest canapé your tastebuds are ever likely to encounter. Opening time: Closed Sat lunch, Sun & two weeks in Aug
60 Cervecería Santa Bárbara Plaza Santa Bárbara 8 Popular but rather pricey meeting place, this classic cervecería on the plaza serves cañas and prawns to keep you going.
61 Stop Madrid c/Hortaleza 11 An old-time bar specializing in products from Extremadura, revitalized with Belgian, Mexican and German beers, as well as vermut on tap. Tapas are largely jamón and chorizo, with the Canapé Stop of ham and tomato doused in olive oil well worth a try.
62 Taberna Angel Sierra c/Gravina 11, Plaza Chueca One of the classic bars of Madrid, with a traditional zinc counter, constantly washed down. Everyone drinks vermut, which is on tap and delicious, and free tapas of the most exquisite boquerones en vinagre are despatched; raciones, however, are a bit pricey.
63 El 26 de Libertad c/Libertad 26, Chueca 915 222 522 Enjoy creative cuisine at this brightly decorated restaurant popular with the Chueca locals. A good €15 menú is available in the week, with more imaginative – and expensive – offerings in the evenings, but service can be slow. Opening time: Closed Sun eve & Mon eve
64 Annapurna c/Zurbano 5 913 198 716 One of the best Indian restaurants in Madrid, especially if you go for the tandoori dishes or thali. Stylish decor and attentive service. Price: Taster menú €30 Opening time: Closed Sat lunch & Sun
65 Bazaar c/Libertad 21, Chueca www.restaurantbazaar.com Fusion-style cuisine with Mediterranean and Asian influences from a relatively new arrival that has already become a big hit on the Chueca scene. Very good-value lunchtime menú at around €10, though service is impersonal. No reservations, so arrive early to avoid a wait.
66 Café Oliver c/Almirante 12, Chueca 915 217 379 www.cafeoliver.com MChueca. There are strong French and Moroccan influences at this trendy and very popular Chueca restaurant with a quality set lunch at €14. A filling brunch of pastries, eggs and pancakes is on offer on Sun (€24). Opening time: Closed Sun & Mon eves
67 Momo c/Libertad 8, Chueca 915 327 348 This well-established eatery is the place to go for a menú with that little bit extra. A selection of menús at midday, evening and weekends. Price: Menús €10–14
68 Salvador c/Barbieri 12, Chueca 915 214 524 A blast from the past with bullfighting decor and specialities such as rabo de toro (bull's tail), gallina en pepitoria, fried merluza (hake) and arroz con leche (rice pudding), all of which are excellent. Price: Menú €20, á la carte around €35 Opening time: Closed Sun eve & Aug
69 La Tasca Suprema c/Argensola 7 913 080 347 This very popular neighbourhood local is worth booking ahead for its Castilian home cooking, done to perfection and including superb pimientos de piquillo (piquant red peppers) and cocido (Mon & Thurs).Price: Around €25 Opening time: Open for lunch only, closed Sun & Aug
70 La Tienda de Vinos (El Comunista) c/Augusto Figueroa 35, Chueca A long-established, down-to-earth comedor; its unofficial (but always used) name dates back to its time as a student haunt under Franco. The garlic soup is recommended. Price: Most dishes €5–9
71 Zara c/Infantas 5, Chueca 915 322 074 Excellent Cuban food at very good prices. Ropa vieja (strips of beef), fried yucca, minced beef with fried bananas and other specialities; the daiquiris are very good, too. Prices are moderate. No reservations, so arrive early. Price: Under €30 Opening time: Closed weekends and public hols
72 Albur c/Manuela Malasaña 15 Wooden tables, rustic decor and excellent food, although the service can be a little slow. The champiñones en salsa verde and the patatas albur are both worth sampling; the well-kept wines are the ideal accompaniment.
73 Casa Camacho c/San Andrés 2 (just off Plaza Dos de Mayo) An irresistible old neighbourhood bodega, with a traditional bar counter, vermut on tap and basic tapas. An ideal place to start the evening. Packed out at weekends.
74 La Musa c/Manuel Malasaña 18 914 487 558 It's easy to see why La Musa – a café, bar and restaurant all rolled into one – has become such a firm favourite on the Malasaña scene. Varied, imaginative – and very tasty – tapas, generous helpings, a strong wine list and chic decor are all part of the recipe for success.
75 Balear c/Sagunto 18 914 479 115 This Levantine restaurant serves only rice-based dishes, but they're superb. There's an inexpensive house cava, and you can turn up any time before midnight. Price: Around €30 Opening time: Closed Sun & Mon eve
76 La Giralda c/Hartzenbush 12 914 457 779 An andaluz fish and seafood restaurant of very high quality: perfectly cooked chipirones, calamares and all the standards, plus wonderful mero (grouper). A second branch, across the road at no. 15, does a similarly accomplished job on pescados fritos. Price: €30–35 Opening time: Closed Sun & public hols
77 Nina Madrid c/Manuela Malasaña 10 915 910 046 A stylish and modern restaurant serving a very good €11.30 menú, excellent weekend brunches (€18) and a tasty evening sampler menú for €28. Imaginative dishes such as duck with cauliflower and sea-urchin sauce, crunchy aubergines in honey, and croquetas in satay sauce feature on the main menu.
78 Ribeira do Miño c/Santa Brigida 1 915 219 854 www.marisqueriaribeiradomino.com A fabulous-value marisquería, serving a seafood platter for two for only €29. Go for the slightly more expensive Galician white wine Albariño to accompany it. Fast, efficient and friendly service.
79 La Platería c/Moratín 49 This touristy but conveniently placed bar has an enormously popular summer terraza and a good selection of reasonably priced tapas.
80 La Tapería del Prado Plaza Platerías de Martínez 1 A modern and slightly pricey bar opposite the Prado serving an inventive range of tapas and raciones.
81 Al Mounia c/Recoletos 5 914 350 826 Moroccan cooking at its best in the most established Arabic restaurant in town, offering a romantic setting with impeccable service. Price: Around €50 Opening time: Closed Mon & Aug
82 Paradis erReeFe c/Paseo de Recoletos 2 915 754 540 A wonderful locale with a great summer terraza in the Palacio de Linares, close to Cibeles. Cooking is light, Mediterranean and tasty and not exorbitant given the location. Price: Around €50 Opening time: Closed Sat lunch, Sun & Aug
83 Viridiana c/Juan de Mena 14 915 315 222 www.restauranteviridiana.com A bizarre temple of Madrid nueva cocina, offering mouthwatering creations from a constantly changing menu, plus a superb selection of wines. Expensive it may be, but it's an unforgettable experience. Price: Around €75 Opening time: Closed Sun, Easter & Aug
84 Hevia c/Serrano 118 Plush venue and wealthy clientele for expensive but excellent tapas and canapés – the hot Camembert is a must. Opening time: Closed Sun & part of Aug
85 José Luís c/Serrano 8 915 630 958 An upmarket tapas bar with dainty and delicious sandwiches laid out along the bar. You take what you fancy and cough up at the end, in the safe knowledge that the owner will have notched up another few hundred euros to expand his chain of bars in the Americas.
86 El Lateral Paseo de la Castellana 134 A swish place serving a good variety of classic dishes such as croquetas and pimientos rellenos (stuffed peppers) with a modern twist.
87 El Amparo Callejón Puigcerdá 8 914 316 456 Most critics rate this elegant designer restaurant among the top five in Madrid – and you'll need to book a couple of weeks ahead to get a table. If you strike lucky, the rewards are faultless Basque cooking. Price: Main dishes around €25–30; at least €70 a head Opening time: Closed Sat lunch & Sun
88 El Pescador c/José Ortega y Gasset 75 914 021 290 One of the city's best seafood restaurants, run by gallegos and with specials flown in from the Atlantic each morning. The clientele can be a bit intimidating, but you'll rarely experience better seafood cooking. Price: Around €60 Opening time: Closed Sun & Aug
89 Zalacaín c/Alvarez de Baena 4 915 614 840 www.restaurantezalacain.com Luxurious setting for one of the best restaurants in town – serving Basque-style, French-influenced cooking – and the only one that has ever had three Michelin stars. The nearby La Broche and Santceloni restaurants are now more famous, but Zalacain is more consistent, though it is overly formal (male customers have to wear jacket and tie). Price: Around €100 Opening time: Closed Sat lunch, Sun & Aug