Spain Guide
Galicia
The Illas Cíes
The most irresistible sands of the Ría de Vigo must be those on the three islands of the Illas Cíes, which can be reached by boat from Vigo, and (less regularly) from Baiona and Cangas. Sprawling across the entrance to the ría, battered by the open Atlantic on one side but sheltering delightful sandy beaches where they face the mainland, the islands were long used by raiders such as Sir Francis Drake as hide-outs from which to ambush Spanish shipping, but are now a nature reserve.
The most southerly, Illa de San Martiño, is an off-limits bird sanctuary; the other two, Illa do Monte Ayudo and Illa do Faro, are joined by a narrow causeway of sand, which cradles a placid lagoon on its inland side. If you want to escape the crowds, it's easy to find a deserted spot – particularly on the Atlantic side. From the beach, a long climb up a winding rocky path across desolate country leads to a lighthouse with a commanding ocean view.
The campsite (986 438 358, www.campingislascies.com; closed Oct– May) is the only legal accommodation on the islands; book ahead to make sure there's space. There is a small shop, as well as a couple of decent restaurants, but as they're free to charge what they choose, if you're on a budget you might prefer to take your own supplies.
Ferries to the islands (40min; €18.50 return) run from Estación Marítima in Vigo in June (4 daily; first leaves Vigo at 11am, last leaves Cíes at 9pm) and from July until the first week of September (8 daily; first leaves Vigo at 9.45am, last leaves Cíes at 9pm). From Cangas and Baiona, they run only between July and the first week of September (4 daily from each; first leaves Cangas at 10.15am, last return leaves Cíes at 7pm; first leaves Baiona at 10.45am, last return leaves Cíes at 7.30pm). Only a certain number of visitors are allowed to visit the Cíes on any one day, so aim for an early boat to make sure.