Spain Guide
Galicia
Muros
Some of the best traditional Galego architecture outside Pontevedra can be found in the old town of MUROS, enhanced by a marvellous natural setting at the widest point of the Ría de Muros, just before it meets the sea. The town rises in tiers of narrow streets from the curving waterfront, where fishing boats unload their catch, to the Romanesque Iglesia de San Pedro. Everywhere you look are squat granite columns and arches, flights of wide steps, and benches and stone porches built into the house fronts. There's also a nice – though small – beach on the edge of town next to the road to Fisterra.
The pick of the seafront hostales has to be the lovely Hostal Ría de Muros at Rúa Castelao 53 (981 826 056; €51-70), where two of the spacious and tastefully furnished double rooms on the top storey have balconies and great sea views. Another hostales stretches back from the road nearby: J Lago, Rúa Castelao 3 (981 827 503; €36-50). Commanding a majestic panorama of the bay from the hillside above town, and reached via a ferociously steep narrow road, 
Jallambau Rural, Lugar de Millaflores (981 826 056, www.jallambaurural.com; €71-100), is a superbly equipped and positioned four-room B&B that can also be rented in its entirety as a holiday home.
As for places to eat, Pulpería Pachanga, Rúa Castelao 29, has a stone-vaulted interior, fresh seafood and grilled meats, while the Praza da Pescadería, a block back from the seafront behind the Ría de Muros, holds several good café-restaurants, including the Xamoneria O Varadoiro, a cheap ham, cheese and tapas place. Monbus bus services stop across from the Ría de Muros.