Spain Guide
Euskal Herria: the País Vasco & Navarra
Eating
1 Asador Sagartoki c/Prado 18
945 288 876
www.sagartoki.es Tucked away behind a tapas bar, this popular restaurant has rustic decor, exposed beams and succulent grilled meats such as chuletillas (steak) from €15–20 and a special cider-house menú (€38.50). Opening time: Closed Sun pm & Mon
2 Casa Felipe c/Fueros 28 A reasonably priced tapas bar with a local, no-frills atmosphere, specializing in excellent Basque dishes – try the pimientos rellenos and chorizo a la sidra. Opening time: Closed Sun lunch & Mon
3 Casa Vieja c/Chiquita 6
945 146 565. A lovely old restaurant with exposed brick and a large open fireplace. Mains from €15, with a €28 special menú of traditional Basque food. Opening time: Closed Sun pm & Mon
4 La Flor de la Rioja c/Cuchillería s/n Tiny, tumbledown old bar that seems like a relic from a bygone age.
5 Ikea Portal de Castilla 27
945 144 747 Expensive, chic restaurant in a converted stone townouse, serving good Basque food with a contemporary spin. The liver pâté is highly recommended.Price: Mains from €20 Opening time: Closed Sun lunch & Mon
6 Kirol c/Cuchillería 31 Dimly lit but friendly tapas bar in an old wood-beamed house, with a fine selection of raciones, including – for the brave – deep-fried pig's ear. Opening time: Daily 12.30–3pm & 7pm–2am
7 La Mal Querida c/Correría 10 Hip, modern tapas bar, serving innovative snacks and raciones both indoors and out, a few steps away from the Plaza de la Virgen Blanca.
8 El Portalón c/Correría 150
945 142 755 Pricey restaurant specializing in traditional Basque cooking, set in beautiful sixteenth-century surroundings. There's a €25 lunch menú, but expect to pay twice that for dinner – and make a reservation. Opening time: Closed Sun
9 Restaurante Poliki c/Manuel Iradier 48 A modern Basque restaurant with a superb menú for €25, and mains from €16. Opening time: Closed Sun
10 El Tulipan de Oro c/Correría 157 Cosy tapas bar in an aged wood-beamed house, serving chorizo flambéed at the bar over pig-shaped alcohol burners, with a €10 weekday menú. Opening time: Mon– Thurs & Sun 11.30am–11pm, Fri & Sat 11.30– midnight
11 Virgen Blanca Plaza de la Virgen Blanca 2 Restaurant/bar with the feel of a British gastro-pub, in a great location overlooking the plaza, with an atmospheric dining room, exposed brick walls, wooden tables and a good €18.60 menú. Opening time: Daily 9am–2am, closed Mon am
12 Xixilu Plaza Amarika 2
945 230 068 The restaurant beyond the bar is one of the best places to sample local Basque fare and is noted for its fish dishes such as bacalao (€12.50) and grilled meats such as litiruelas (lamb; €13.50).